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Thanks to Vineyard & Winery Magazine for permission to reprint this excellent and interesting article about the state of Washington's wine industry Ste. Michelle's vast influence Other Eastern Washington wineries
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Washington State ...Wineries Establish
Themselves As Washington has steadily moved into second place in wine production among American states, it has successfully built recognition for both value and high-end wines and wines. No longer "Washington wines" but simply good wines, the wines have moved from niche to mainstream. Having gained this foothold, Washington's ambitious producers are continuing to upgrade their images to compete more directly with wines from North Coastal California and Europe. Still, Washington wines fits all niches: Well-made high volume wines, premium medium volume producers, exclusive cult-like wines - and Mom and Pop wineries that exist primarily because of their locations and friendly tasting rooms. In all, the state now has about 150 wineries; a new one opens every 13 days, according to the Washington Wine Commission. In 1999, Washington wineries produced 10 million gallons of wine from 70,000 tons of grapes. Harvest this year is expected to be 90,000 tons according to the Washington Wine Commission. That's roughly comparable to production from Napa Valley. Total vinifera acreage was 24,806 acres in 1999, up from 11,100 in 1993, and more than 2350 acres were estimated to be planted this past spring. Total value of the wine grape crop in 1999 was $64 million, fourth in the state behind apples, cherries and pears. Red grapes accounted for 9,500 acres of the plantings, a significant change from earlier days when the majority of production was whites: Today, however, Merlot is king. Benefiting from the rising demand for reds in general and that approachable grape in particular, Washington wine producers have exploited their specific growing conditions to produce velvety wines that don't typically become overripe like those from some warmer areas. As a wine producer, Washington has many unusual characteristics. First, its production is dominated by one company. Stimson Lane Vineyards & Estates, itself a subsidiary of UST, formerly US Tobacco Company, owns the two largest brands, Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. Together they produce almost 60 percent of all the wine from Washington. Secondly, unlike Napa or Sonoma wine regions, the best grapes grow in areas where most people don't and wouldn't choose to live. Some major wineries and company executives live in the thriving Seattle suburbs of West-Central Washington, but their grapes are grown in semi-desert regions hundreds of miles away. Chateau Ste. Michelle, for example, boasts an elegant headquarters and visitor center in Woodinville just northeast of Seattle, where it hosts concerts and events, but the winery's grapes come from vast vineyards far inland. The only vines growing on the property are strictly for show. And across the street lies imposing Columbia Winery (not to be confused with Columbia Crest), which also gets grapes from Eastern Washington. The reason for this split is simple: cool wet Western Washington is inhospitable to vinifera vines, while the near-desert regions to the east are almost ideal. A few small wineries grow grapes in the Puget Sound AVA around Seattle, including on lovely islands, but it's a struggle for get them to ripen. Most have to use early ripening grapes including German varieties like Muller-Thurgau, Siegerebbe and Madeleine Angevine, virtually unknown elsewhere in the US. Attractions for tourists and sources of satisfaction for their owners, the wineries also help raise the visibility and diversity of the industry in the state. Flying from Seattle to the major grape-growing regions of Washington is a revelation. Taking off from lush green areas covered with forests and verdant lawns, you fly over the steep Cascade Mountains topped by dramatic Mount Rainier, then descend into dry rolling hills where the only green is vineyards, other crops and river valleys. Aside from the Pugent Sound AVA, all the major vineyards in the state are located in the vast Columbia Valley AVA. Though occupying fully one-quarter of the state, the region is remarkably homogeneous. It is shaded from the Pacific by the Cascade Range, and receives only 6 to 8 inches of rainfall per year, mostly in the winter dormant season. That's obviously inadequate for growing grapes, but the Columbia, Snake and Yakima rivers and underground reserves provide the water needed while drip irrigation allows producers to control vine activity for optimum quality, quantity -and winter hardiness. A continental climate with warm summers in the '80's and '90's and cold winters, the whole area lies around the 46th parallel, surprisingly the same as Burgundy's Côte d'Or. At this northern latitude, the vines receive about two more hours of sunlight each day during the summer growing season than Napa or Sonoma, but the area is cooler overall, ideal conditions for maturing grapes without excessive sugar levels. Heat summations range from 1 in the Yakima Valley to high region 3 and even low region 4 on the northern south-facing Wahluke Slope. Except in river bottoms, soils in the area are generally infertile and fast draining, a combination of degraded basalt bedrock with water and wind-deposited sand, gravel and silt loam. They are typically deep but moderately weak. The area is delightfully free of grape pests. With no phylloxera, most vines are planted on their own roots, often with double trunks. And no Pierce's disease in found in the dry area, which is also hostile to potential carriers. One aspect of the weather that scares growers from more temperate climates, however, is the winter. About once a decade, a hard freeze comes along and decimates vines: In 1996, a February freeze caused widespread damage, with yields of Merlot affected significantly. Controlled irrigation is a help, however. If growers stop watering, the vines go dormant and are mostly protected from the weather. Ste. Michelle's vast influence Any discussion of wine in Washington has to state with Stimson Lane and its subsidiaries Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. Its determined president Alan Shoup just announced his retirement, but he has had vast influence on the state's wine business and its acceptance outside the area. All together, Stimson Lane owns or contracts 14,500 of the states 24,000 acres. Chateau Ste. Michelle pioneered vinifera grape growing in Washington when predecessor National Wine Company (later American Wine Growers) began planting vinifera grapes in the Columbia Valley in 1951. It began producing classic European varietal wines in 1967 and famed retired winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff visited, then became a consultant to the firm then Its first Ste. Michelle wines were Cabernet Sauvignon and Semillon as well as Pinot Noir and Grenache rosé. Only the first two excel in the state, however. The winery headquarters is now in a chateau built by lumber baron Frederick Stimson as Hollywood Farm in 1912. The winery's white wines are made at this site and Chateau Ste. Michelle has a large red wine winery at River Ridge Winery on the Columbia River, 15 miles west of Paterson (where the huge Columbia Crest Winery is located). Ste. Michelle has four major vineyards in the Columbia Valley totaling 1280 acres: Cold Creek, Indian Wells, Horse Heaven and Canoe Ridge. @Note to Tom, please leave a photo-hole for picture. Caption to read " Canoe Ridge Tasting Room" In 1972, the company planted its Cold Creek Vineyard, ironically one of the warmest vineyards in the state. It has weak, silty loam soil that is lighter and drains better than many in the Columbia Valley. The warmth, soil and deficit irrigation produce concentrated, intense fruit. Indian Wells Vineyard 10 miles away is west facing, and receives plenty of heat but the cool nights maintain acidity. The soil, a mix of river gravel and sand, reflects its origin as an ancient river bed, and its lack of nutrients and fast-draining keep vegetative growth in check for well-stressed vines. Both areas produce excellent red wines, including intense Cabernet Sauvignons. South near the Columbia River are two other Ste. Michelle vineyards. Horse Heaven lies on a plateau with deep, quick-draining soils and one of the longest frost-free growing seasons in the state. The 417-acre Canoe Ridge Vineyard, which was planted in 1993, is on steep slopes on a distinctive 950-foot high geological ridge that looks a bit like an overturned canoe. The location is a bit less extreme than other parts of eastern Washington, with the winters not quite as cold and the river's presence helping moderate summer temperatures. It produces excellent Chardonnay. Its designation is being changed to River Ridge by the winery to avoid confusion with Canoe Ridge Vineyard in Walla Walla whcih farms the same area. Winemaker Eric Olsen at Chateau Ste. Michelle notes that its vineyard at Canoe Ridge survived the February 1996 freeze when nearby Columbia Crest was devastated. Though the thermometer hit -28 F, warm air from the river protected that steep vineyard. Vines are typically on double trunks on their own roots with unilateral cordons, spur-pruned and some vineyards use movable wires for shoot positioning where needed; at Canoe Ridge, for example, the wind is quite strong up the Columbia Basin. Typical spacing is 6 by 9 feet. Some vineyards are organically grown because of low pest and disease pressures, and others use integrated pest management as much as practical. The grapes are picked mechanically. Irrigation is obviously a big issue in Washington, and its wineries have conducted many studies with Washington State University to optimize the process. Deficient irrigation have become a vital tool to improve quality while maintaining production The winery was first known for Riesling, but is rapidly expanding its production of Chardonnay, and that now represents 40 percent of its production. Ste. Michelle barrel ferments all its Chardonnay and other dry whites using barrels for four years. The wines all go through malolactic fermentation. With the rising demand for red wines and Merlot in particular, Ste. Michelle is focusing heavily on red wines, notes head winemaker Erik Olsen. It's also betting heavily on Syrah, and Washington has 1500 acres of that grape. Overall, however, Olsen says that the sites varieties are planted in are very exacting, and the winery has to choose very carefully where to plant grapes. Total planned production with expansion of its River Ridge Winery will be 750,000 cases, three-quarters white, but volume now is just over 500,000 cases. In general, Ste. Michelle wines are European in character, striving for elegance rather than blockbuster characteristics. Stimson Lane also produces Domaine Ste. Michelle sparkling wines and Snoqualmie and Northstar wines and has undertaken joint ventures with three international companies to produce distinctive wines. Col Solare is produced with the Antinori family of Tuscany, and Eroica Riesling with Dr. Ernst Loosen of Germany. The company recently entered an agreement with the Petaluma of Australia to make and market wines together. A number of other wineries are headquartered near
Chateau Ste. Michelle, mostly tiny compared to it. Most depend on grapes
from eastern Washington. SilverLake Winery and a sister sparkling wine operation produce about 25,000 cases of wine yearly from 250 acres of grapes in eastern Washington. The grapes are processed there; they also sell fruit to other wineries. The winery distributes primarily in the Pacific Northwest, selling in supermarkets for $8 to $22. "Everyone wants to sell $60 wines like Leonetti," notes president Sal Leone, "but it's tough competition there." He sells 20 percent of his wine through its tasting room. One of the small producers in Washington hoping to make a name for itself, and the state, is DeLille Cellars in Woodinville. Producing limited quantities of high-end wines from some of the best vineyards in the state, it doesn't have tours or tastings, though it does hold winemaker dinners. Winemaker Christopher Upchurch uses Cabernet grapes from 36-year-old Harrison Vineyard, the oldest in the state, for some of its wines. It also holds great hopes for Syrah. At the other end of the scale, tiny family-owned and operated Facelli Winery in Woodinville makes and sells its wines from a small facility in an industrial park, primarily to loyal long-time customers. Unlike those around Seattle, many of the state's wineries operate near their sources of grapes in Eastern Washington, some on their own estates. The largest winery by far is Stimson Lane's Columbia Crest, the largest producer in Washington. Seeking a high-volume market with value-priced premium wines, Columbia Crest has done very well and is now moving upscale as well. It produces 1.6 million cases per year, 600,000 of Chardonnay. Columbia Crest has 2500 acres of vines in the Columbia Valley, much around the winery. It also has 1000 new acres in the Tri-Cities area 25 miles northeast and gets some fruit from vineyards it shares with Chateau Ste. Michelle at Canoe Ridge nearby and Cold Creek. The estate vineyards are at 400 to 700 feet, on loamy sand to silt loam over gravel and fractured basalt. They're typically on 2 to 5 percent south-facing slopes and receive 2800 to 2900 heat units. The growing season is 160-190 days, and the area sees clouds only about 60 days per year. The last spring frost is typically in April, the first in Autumn in late October. Most of the vineyards are 14 to 16 years old, some five, and a typical year, the vineyards produce 10,000 tons for about 5 tons per acre. Columbia Crest wines are made in a huge modern facility in Paterson on a ridge overlooking the majestic Columbia River. Paterson is so small and isolated that it's been featured in ironic ads from the company in which the winemaker states, "I didn't come here for the nightlife," but because it's a great place to make wine. In spite of its isolated location, the facility has an attractive visitor center that matches the centers found around San Francisco. The winery is partly underground, and a new barrel room has expanded capacity to 52,000 barrels. The winery uses the latest winemaking techniques and is well equipped with modern equipment. It has four rotary fermentors to extract fruit with two more on order for next year. Columbia Crest produces wine in three tiers, the Columbia Valley, a fruity popular style, Estate (35,000 cases) and Reserve (a few thousand). Other Eastern Washington wineries Within the Columbia Valley appellation are two smaller AVAs, Yakima Valley and Walla Walla. Both have attracted large numbers of small producers, some focusing on high quality wines, while others seem interested primarily in participating in the romance of winemaking. Yakima Valley stretches 30 miles southeast from Yakima to Tri-Cities, close to where the Snake River and Yakima Rivers join the Columbia. It contains about 30 wineries, most fairly small. The major economic influence in the area outside agriculture remains the giant Hanford site where the US government formerly produced nuclear weapons. Though bomb-making has ended, clean-up of the area is perhaps costing even more than the original function and will continue for the indefinite future. This facility, however, has attracted well-educated families to nearby attractive small cities such as Yakima, and the Tri-Cities: Richland, Pasco and Kennewick. The residents, and the cities themselves, are searching for replacement jobs and prosperity, and wine seems to have the greatest hope. The number of small wineries is causing these two relatively compact regions to focus on developing as tourist destinations. Washington wine and tourist interests, in fact, have visited California recently to find how they attract visitors, but it's difficult to discount the 100- to 200-mile drive from major population centers, as well as a lack of attractive scenery, lodging and food once you get there. California's Chalone Wine Group has two ventures in Washington, one near Yakima. It recently bought Staton Hills Winery, and is renovating and upgrading its slightly tarnished reputation, renaming it descriptive Sagelands in the process. Winemaker Kevin Mott is overseeing 120 acres of new vines where apple, cherry and pear orchards once grew, adding to the existing 11 acres on dramatic slopes that reach 1100 feet overlooking the Yakima Valley. It also has 390 acres of vines under contract. The winery can produce 40,000 cases, and is undergoing a 30,000 sq.ft. expansion that will allow it to ultimately produce 125,00 cases. Its most popular wines sell for $14.99 retail. "We want to make affordable, high quality wines," says Mott. Among other Yakima valley wineries are The Hogue Cellars, which has developed an excellent reputation, Preston Vineyards, the state's largest family owned winery, and Hedges Cellars. The latter, owned by a family that entered the business almost by accident when fruit-importing customers in Sweden asked them to supply wine, also has a facility in Issaquah in Western Washington. Having started as a "virtual" winery, Hedges has caught up with an impressive chateau-like winery on Red Mountain, a district some consider among Washington's best grape-growing areas. The mountain is named for vegetation rather than soil (another winery at its base is Terra Blanca!) and it is a potential AVA. Hedges has 60 acres of its 90 under production, and that will rise to 75 acres. It uses deep wells rather than water from the river far below, and its vines are planted 9 by 5, some 5 by 5. Its production is 40,000 cases, sold in 45 states and 24 countries, a legacy of the export business. Like most fancy wineries in underdeveloped, it invites events and functions to supplement its wine income. Walla Wall is another up and coming region, one where the emphasis may even focused more on quality. Its Leonetti Cellars has achieved cult-like status, eschewing visitors and selling only from a mailing list, while L'Ecole No. 41 Winery is among those gaining an excellent reputation. With its resort-like climate, genteel development and prosperous inhabitants - not to forget its famous onions - Walla Walla probably comes closest of any location in Washington likely to develop a wine-country lifestyle. One of the leading wineries in Walla Walla is Canoe Ridge Vineyards. Which is 51 percent owned by Chalone Wine Group (local investors own the rest). Canoe Ridge produces 32,000 cases per year, with 19,000 in its highly regarded Merlot. The winery is an historic engine house that once housed interurban trains. Winemaker John Abbot came to the area to start the venture in 1994; he was previously at Chalone's Acacia Winery. Canoe Ridge's grapes come from that named bluff 75 miles west near Columbia Crest Winery. The vineyard consists of 156 acres in Merlot, Cabernet and Chardonnay. It lies on a northeast slope - there's no shortage of sun - at 500 to 775 feet in sandy loam and receives only 5 to 6 inches of rain annually. The unusual site stays about 10 degrees warmer during the winter than surrounding vineyards. Water is pumped up from the river and stored in a pond at the top of the property for gravity feed. Other wineries in Walla Walla include Woodward Canyon, Seven Hills and Walla Walla. Local interests are seeking to expand the Walla Walla AVA. There are also wineries in other locations in the state, a few each along the northern Columbia Valley as well as its Gorge near Portland, and a few in Spokane in the far eastern part of the state near Idaho. Washington has certainly demonstrated that it can produce both world-class and fine value wines. No longer an anomaly of interest primarily to state residents, its best wineries now play on the large stage.
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