July 14, 2004
by Shannon Borg

The Rhône Rangers rode into Seattle last weekend, brandishing every gun they had. The usual suspects were there – Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon Vineyards, the leader of the California pack, along with about 25 of his California cohorts. But the showing by Washington wineries, led by seasoned Syrah-teers Doug McCrea of McCrea Cellars and David Lake of Columbia Winery, was a sight we wouldn’t have expected, even a few years ago.

Although the Rangers formed (informally) back in 1988 when 18 wine California Rhône-style wine producers met to exchange ideas and camaraderie, the group didn’t formalize its status until 1997, and now more than 170 wineries from California, Idaho, New York, Oregon, and Washington share sips and emails on a consistent basis, all with the purpose of promoting the virtues of American wines produced in the style of France’s Northern and Southern Rhône regions.

Up to 21 varietals have been traditionally used in these red, rose and white wines. For reds, Syrah is king in the North, while it is blended in the South with Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan(e), Cinsau(l)t, Counoise, Muscardin, Petit Sirah (Durif), Picpoul Noir, Terret Noir, and Vaccarèse. For whites, Viognier is the main Northern varietal; In the South, Rousanne and Marsanne are the primary components, along with Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Picardin, Picpoul/Piquepoul Blanc and Ugni Blanc.

If France has had a few hundred years to get it right, America hopes to be a quick study. According to the Rhône Rangers, simplified American versions of these wines, focusing mostly on Syrah or Viognier, are gaining a following because they are “vividly fruity,” and pair well with grilled meats, cheeses and summer foods without putting a bullet hole in your pocketbook. While even five years ago Syrah and Grenache based reds were a novelty in Washington and Oregon, now Syrah acreage is up to 2,100 acres with 1,610 bearing fruit in Washington. And while Oregon has a much smaller amount of Syrah planted (285 acres, 196 bearing), there is a vital interest in these wines there, too.

Twenty-three Washington wineries and a handful of Oregon wineries poured alongside the California producers. From the oldest Syrah vineyard in the state – Red Willow, producing fruit for Columbia Winery, to brand-spanking new wineries such as Chelan Wine Company’s Vin du Lac label (their first vintage). And even though now a roomful of Washington Syrah’s doesn’t phase us, it is surprising to have the option of 35 or so Rhône-varietal whites – made from Viognier, Rousanne and Marsanne – at one tasting.

To the right is a select list of what the Washington and Oregon Rhône Rangers brought to town – (turns out this town is big enough for all of us!):

Northwest Wines
Poured at the
Rhone Rangers Event

Amavi (WA)
2002 Walla Walla Syrah

Apex Cellars (WA)
2002 Bridgman Yakima Valey Roussanne
2001 Bridgman Yakima Valley Viognier
2001 Bridgman YakimaValley Syrah
2000 Apex Yakima Valley Syrah
2001/ / Outlook Vineyard syrah

Chateau Ste. Michelle (WA)
2001 Columbia Valley Syrah
2001 Rserve Syrah
2001 Cold Creek Vineyard Syrah
2001 Canoe Ridge Estate Syrah

Columbia Crest (WA)
2001 Grand Estates Syrah
2001 Reserve Syrah

Columbia Winery (WA)
2001 Columbia Valley Syrah
2003 Yakima Valley/
Red Willow Vineyard Viognier
1999 Yakima Valley/
Red Willow Vineyard Syrah
2001 Red Willow Vineyard/
South Chapel Syrah

Covey Run (WA)
2001 Washington Syrah
2001 Barrel Select/Columbia Valley Syrah

DeLille Cellars (WA)
2001 Doyenne

Dunham Cellars (WA)
2002Columbia Valley Syrah

Edgefield Winery (OR)
2003 Viognier
2001 Cuvee deL’abre Rouge, Del Rio Vineyards
2001 Columbia Valley/Chukar Ridge Vineyard Syrah

Harlequin Wine Cellars (WA)
2002 Columbia Valley
/Clifton Vineyard Viognier
2002 Yakima Valley
/Minick Vineyard Syrah
2002 Columbia Valley/
Sundance Vineyard Syrah

Hogue Cellars (WA)
2002 Genesis Viognier
2001 Terroir Syrah
2000 Genesis Syrah

Isenhower (WA)
2002 Columbia Valley Snapdragon
2002 Columbia Valley River Beauty Syrah

McCrea Cellars (WA)
2002 Washington State Vin Rosé
2003 Yakima Valley Viognier
2003 Red Mountain Roussanne
2002 Washington State Syrah
2002 Washington State Sirocco
2002 Red Mountain Counoise
2002 Red Mourvedre
2001 Yakinma Valley Cuvee Orleans Syrah
2002 Washington State Late Harvest Viognier

Rulo Winery (WA)
2002 Columbia Valley Viognier
2002 Columbia Valley Syrah
2002 Columbia Valley “Silo” (Reserve Syrah)

Silvan Ridge (OR)
2003 Viognier
2003 Grenache Rosé
2001 Syrah

Snoqualmie (WA)
2001 Columbia Valley Syrah
2001 Reserve Syrah

Saviah Cellars
2002 Columbia Valley Syrah

Novelty Hill
2002 Columbia Valley Syrah

Syncline Wine Cellars (WA)
2003 Clifton Vineyard
Columbia Valley Viognier
2002 Subduction Red Table Wine
2003 Clifton Vineyard
Columbia Valley Grenache
2003 Columbia Valley Rosé

Terra Blanca (WA)
2003 Yakima Valley Viognier
2001 Red Mountain Syrah
2001 Red Mountain “Block 8” Syrah

Tsillan Cellars (WA)
2002 Viognier Columbia Valley

Viento (OR, but these are WA wines)
2003 Colubmia Valley
/Lonesome Spring Ranch Viognier
2002 Walla Walla Valley/
Seven Hills Vineyard
2001 Columbia Valley
“ Cuvee R” Syrah
2002 Columbia Valley/
Alder Ridge Vineyard Cuvee Provencal

Vin Du Lac (Chelan Wine Company)(WA)
2002 Yakima Valley Viognier
2002 Yakima Valley Syrah

Whitman Cellars (WA)
2003 Walla Walla Valley Viognier
2002 Walla Walla Valley Syrah

Wilridge Winery (WA)
2001 Yakima Valley
/Elephant Mountain Vineyards Syrah
2000 Yakima Valley/
Stout Ranch Vineyard Syrah

Zefina Winery (WA)
2001 Serience Rhône Red
2002 Serience Rhône White
2002 Rosé (Grenache)