Remy Wines’ Lagrein: Oregon’s One Acre of Italian Fascination
Remy Wines Lagrein 06 – Get me started on this wine and I just can’t stop. It’s made from the one scant acre of the Italian Lagrein grape grown in the Pacific Northwest.
Gossip is that Remy Drabkin’s Lagrein is a hit at the ultra swank Bandon Dunes Resort’s restaurant – where some super sophisticated wine drinkers go to relax after a round of golf. Apparently the Lagrein was found fascinating, even by people who can have any wine they want. Piqued our curiosity.
Remy uses a glass cork, and the label is an embossed matt black. Cool. As soon as the cork popped, the scent floored us. It is a super-perfumed bundle of raspberry, vanilla, fresh saddle leather, and, yes, hints of bread pudding. Hints of black plum as well.
After a lot of swirling and sniffing, time to venture a sip. Succulent. Sweet, deep black fruit flavors (black plum, black cherry, black currant, briar). Tellicherry peppercorn, meaty (as in charecuterie). Unusual. Giant. Creamy, like a rich pudding, but with a tannic backbone and berry style acidity that enlivens the wine. Remy took inspiration from the traditional Italian style – rustic and hearty; she added her own distinct northwest twist.
The Remy Lagrein 06 is a bit young. As Adrienne says, this is a wine to age for 5-6 years – something I really want to do, if I can resist showing off my few bottles to friends.
Marcus and Adrienne agree that Remy’s Lagrein screams for game sausage – elk, venison, or maybe Oregon lamb. Or perhaps cassoulet.
“A richly textured, rustic, highly tannic wine made from very low-yielding vines, with the scent of wild mulberries. This is a rare Italian grape variety, recently introduced to Oregon.” – Portland Monthly September 09
Remy makes about 60 cases of Lagrein from one acre of mature grapes planted at Illahe Vineyards, in the mid-Willamette Valley, not very far from Avalon Wine. As far as we can tell, it’s the only Lagrein grown in the entire northwestern US.
Remy Wines Lagrein 06 $59.95/$53.95 – Yes, it’s pricey. It’s also fascinating. Give it a try if you’re up for a splurge.
At right, Remy Drabkin, owner and winemaker at Remy Wines