New Zealand and Oregon Pinot Noir-
Similarities, Shared Ideals, A Report from NZ
by Avalon's New Zealand Correspondent, Sue Courtney

What is it about Pinot Noir that evokes such emotion and brings together producers and disciples from many points on the globe to worship their passion at events like Oregon' s International Pinot Noir Celebration and New Zealand's Pinot Noir 2001?

Jancis Robinson MW gives one answer. "I think the reason pinot engenders conferences and passion is because it is so much the underdog to cabernet. There needs to be a fuss made of it", she says.

Keynote speaker Jancis Robinson MW, undoubtedly the world's most respected wine commentator, compared Pinot Noir to Cabernet Sauvignon then told us what was she thought was so great about Pinot Noir :

==== she likes it because it can be enjoyed young or old;

==== she loves that the wines it produces are so varied;

==== she loves that it is such a transparent medium to communicate sense of place with;

==== she finds that its structure is not sheer mass and power and volume but, in some examples, is elegant, charming and delicate;

==== she says it is the sort of wine that dances on the palate rather than marching across it;

==== it is a wine that seizes your heart before it hits your head;

==== and it is just so easy to love.

"New Zealand has a great future for Pinot Noir", she said. "It is a very difficult to grow right and the places where it will thrive and make good wine are so limited. The world is awash with Cabernet and Cabernet Merlots and so many countries can produce a decent one, whereas so few countries can produce a decent Pinot Noir, so I am sure this is very good for New Zealand".

Her global overview of the state of Pinot Noir proficiency and style around the world set the scene for Oregon's Stephen Cary. His witty and entertaining commentary accompanied a visual delight in a photographic journey through the world of Pinot Noir, which took us from Burgundy to many 'new' producing regions such as British Columbia as well as to California, Oregon and New Zealand. I look forward to seeing his book when it is released.

A highlight was the session by Professor Warren Moran of the University of Auckland, who spoke about "Terroir - the Human Factor". He said that too much emphasis is put on the environment - the geology and the climate - and we should not forget the physiological processes and the people when we talk about terroir and the complexity of interactions that take place.

Other lectures included Bollinger head, Ghislain de Montgolfier, talking about the significance of Pinot Noir to Champagne, Dr Ian Hall (NZ) talking about Truffles, Professor Don Beaven (NZ) talking about Wine and Civilisation while Bob Campbell MW (NZ) gave his view of Wine and the Internet. In addition, Robert Drouhin and David Graves hosted a winemakers' forum.

The Tastings

The great exhibition of Pinot Noir held in the Town Hall, with sessions open to the public, had 64 of the New Zealand's producers pouring their pinots in a well thought out set-up with wines displayed in alphabetical order of producer name by region.

The formal wine tastings for the delegates and guests were masterfully organised into two venues, one for about 320 tasters in the Michael Fowler Centre and the other in a smaller room in the Town Hall.

The International Tasting, chaired by New Zealand Master of Wine, Bob Campbell had panellists James Halliday (Aus), Harvey Steiman (USA), Damien Martin (NZ) and Robert Drouhin (Fr) representing the countries of the featured wines, which were:

==== Martinborough Vineyard Reserve 1998
-------------------- (Martinborough, New Zealand)
==== Knappstein Lenswood 1999 (South Australia, Australia)
==== Bannockburn 1997 (Victoria, Australia)
==== Adelsheim Bryans Creek 1998 (Oregon, USA)
==== Saintsbury California 1999 (California, USA)
==== Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander 1998 (California, USA)
==== Domain de la Vougarei Cote de Beaune 1999
-------------------------------- (Burgundy, France)
==== Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 1991
-------------- ------------------(Burgundy, France)

It was a lively session with good and sometimes hilarious comments from the panellists and representatives of each wine who were called on to speak. With so many glasses to prepare for the seated tastings, the wines had to be poured well in advance.

Despite sitting in the glass for perhaps up to 3 or 4 hours, all the wines showed well to me, which further endorsed the quality of these wines. But while an interesting international tasting, it was perhaps a little disappointing that there was no Grand Cru Burgundy or a representative from the Russian River Valley, an area that had been highly spoken of in the preceding lectures. I would have like to have seen more than one Oregon wine too.

The New Zealand Tasting gave the opportunity to taste the country's regions side by side. From north to south, the selected wines were:

==== Kumeu River 1999 - Auckland
==== Vidal Estate 1998 - Hawkes Bay
==== Dry River Amaranth 1999 - Martinborough
==== Seresin 1999 - Marlborough
==== Neudorf Moutere Reserve 1999 - Nelson
==== Pegasus Bay Prima Donna 1999 - Canterbury
==== Felton Road Block 3 1999 - Otago

Each wine was presented by its wine-maker, who spoke about their region's history of pinot noir as well as their geology and climate. The exercise was not to pick favourites, however one can not help doing so.

I gave gold medal ratings to all the wines from Martinborough south and chose as my star wine the Dry River by a cat's whisker from the Felton Road.

The overseas delegates I spoke to, especially the Americans, were very impressed and surprised at the bright fruit flavours of our pinots.

Forrest Tancer, of California's Iron Horse Vineyards, said "I find the wines to be to my liking which means they really tend to emphasis the flavour of the grape varieties and I find them to be very bright, very delicious to drink which seems to be what we are supposed to be making for consumers".

Bernard Lacroute of Oregon's Willakenzie Vineyard found the wines somewhat different to those from Oregon and California. "It reflects the fact we have different climatic conditions, different soils and possibly different viticultural practices", he said. "They are Pinot Noir, there is no question about that, but the styles and the way they come across is somewhat different".

Oregonian Ronni Lacroute thought that Pinot Noir 2001 was a great opportunity for the international delegates to appreciate what is happening in New Zealand, to see the industry in its pioneering days, taking off and becoming world class. "It is very exciting and gives energy to everybody who is in Pinot Noir production because we now have another colleague to assist in marketing Pinot Noir."

Robert Drouhin said there were two good things about New Zealand Pinot Noir. "They were not too oaky and they were generally true to what we think is the Pinot Noir type", he said.

I asked Jancis Robinson if was possible to compare Oregon pinot noir to New Zealand Pinot Noir.

"I think you can", she said. "There are a lot of comparisons between Oregon and New Zealand not least because both of you have this domineering neighbour with more sunshine and a lot more confidence. Also I think, with a few notable exceptions, the NZ wine industry seems to the preserve of driven individuals, just like Oregon. I think there is also the fact that until very very recently there hadn't been many Burgundian, Dijon clones in either Oregon or New Zealand, so the flavours had tended to be sweeter and fruitier. And you are both passionate about Pinot Noir. I suppose you could argue that Pinot Noir is even more important to Oregon than it is to New Zealand because Oregon doesn't have a sauvignon blanc or even a major chardonnay business, but in terms of red wine I think you are both equally devoted to Pinot."

Should the New World producers be trying to make wines that taste like Burgundy or should we be trying to make great pinot noir, I asked. "I think that the winemakers should have a full knowledge what great Burgundy is", she replied. "That is a prerequisite to making great pinot noir and if then knowingly you establish a different and absolutely delicious style then that's justifiable."

The Eating

In between the formal lectures and the wine tastings were plenty of opportunities to sip on fine wines and feast on delicious cuisine at the morning and afternoon teas, lunches and dinners.

The first lavish feast was the Mayors Village Lunch under a giant marquee erected in Wellington's Civic Square, adjacent to the Conference venues. Delegates dined on fresh Mediterranean-style food accompanied by a selection of New Zealand rieslings, sauvignon blancs, chardonnays and of course, pinot noir.

That evening, under another giant marquee, was the 'Cordon Blair'. Blair Street, in the middle of Wellington's restaurant district was cordoned off for the delegates and guests to sip on white wines and pinot noir in a casual setting to the accompaniment of various bands while enjoying food served from stalls by thirteen of Wellington's finest restaurants.

The following day lunch was provided in a brown paper bag, giving delegates to opportunity to walk around the revitalised and attractive wharf area or to just sit in the sun and enjoy an alcohol-free lunch with delicious food.

The premier cuisine event was the Dinner with the Arts, which started in the ballroom of the classy Duxton Hotel then progressed to the Civic Square Marquee and City Art Gallery for dessert. Four of New Zealand's top chefs, Peter Thornley, Alistair Brown, Tony Smith and Peter Gordon excelled with their delicious offerings matched to first class examples of New Zealand Pinot Gris and New Zealand and International Pinot Noir.

A highlight of the dinner was the auction of a very unique wine - the New Zealand Reserve Vintage 2000 Pinot Noir, a blend of Pinot Noir from all the producers attending the Conference. Just two a half barrels were made. With vigorous bidding spurred on by auctioneer Jim Clendenen from California's Au Bon Climat Vineyards, the most fortunate buyers were those who were able to secure a 6-pack for NZ$350, just NZ$58 a bottle. The dozen-packs in their beautiful wooden boxes were not such a bargain while the magnums sold for $450 a piece and the jeroboams, put up as individual lots, fetched between NZ$900 and NZ$1500 each.

The Finales

The formal closing session was an overview of the issues raised during the Conference. Bob Campbell MW put the questions to Jancis Robinson, James Halliday, Harvey Steiman, Robert Drouhin and Ghislain de Montgolfier resulting in a lively discussion between the experts. However, when asked which region they thought rated second to Burgundy, most answers reeked of patriotism. "Yarra" said Halliday, while Drouhin said "Champagne". de Montgolfier said that "Champagne was No.1 and Burgundy was No. 2". Harvey Steiman answered "California". Jancis Robinson, however gave the most diplomatic answer. "I think it is a little of each of the regions we have been tasting", she said.

The Conference finale was a trip to Martinborough, about an hour north of Wellington, via train to Featherston, where buses carried the delegates to mystery destinations. As my bus left the station the itinerary was revealed - I was going to Te Kairanga, then Martinborough Vineyards and finally Ata Rangi for lunch. It was a fabulous day especially being at one of the regions oldest producers for a vineyard feast and the opportunity to try consecutive vintages of Ata Rangi Pinot Noir from 1993 through to a barrel sample of the 2000. What a treat.

The Synopsis

Pinot Noir 2001 was a great experience and great for the producers too, as Blair Walter of Felton Road Wines sums up. "I think it was a tremendous success in terms of the calibre of wine writers, trade and interested persons attending from off-shore", he said.

Pinot Noir 2001, inspired by the IPNC, attracted 460 delegates at NZ$1250 a ticket to consume their passion at this great promotion of New Zealand Pinot Noir, together with an army of media from the USA, Canada, UK, Australia, Japan, Germany, Switzerland and of course New Zealand.

55% of the delegates were from New Zealand while 21% crossed the Tasman from Australia, 15% were from the USA, 5% were from the UK and the remainder travelled from France, Japan, Canada, Germany, Switzerland, Brazil and Singapore.
Supplied by the Wine Institute of NZ]

Held at Wellington's Civic Centre, comprising the old Town Hall and the modern Michael Fowler Centre, the Conference program with two full days of consumer-oriented lectures and accompanying Cuisine Programme had something for everyone.

HISTORY of Pinot Noir 2001

The Pinot producers of New Zealand have Larry McKenna of Escarpment Vineyards, formerly of Martinborough Vineyards to thank for sowing the seed for Pinot Noir 2001.

McKenna, one of New Zealand's foremost producers of Pinot Noir, was invited to the inaugural IPNC in 1988 and has attended at least 5 events in McMinnville since that time.

He floated the idea of a New Zealand celebration at the Southern Pinot Noir Workshop in 1998 and in 1999 submissions were put forward to hold the event. Voting by the producers attending the workshop went 24/16 in favour of Wellington, New Zealand's capital city, as the venue.

After a few seeding meetings early in 1999, Larry McKenna approached Richard Riddiford of Palliser Estate and a director of the Wine Institute of New Zealand, to chair the board on Pinot Noir 2001 as it was later to be named.

The REGIONS of
New Zealand Wine Country

Pinot Noir was first recorded as being planted in New Zealand in 1883 by William Beetham at Masterton, a little north of the now well regarded Martinborough region, although the grape may well have arrived some time earlier with the French missionaries.

The new era of Pinot Noir began in 1962 when Frank Berrysmith, a government viticulturist, imported clones 10/5 and Bachtobel from Switzerland. From north to south, planting of pinot noir spread throughout the country and now, in 2001, most producers are experimenting with Dijon clones.

==== Auckland: Corbans Wines experimented in the 1960's having most success with a sparkling wine. Nobilo Vintners produced a well-rated still red Pinot Noir in 1976.
==== Martinborough / Wairarapa: Pinot Noir was replanted in 1982 at Martinborough with the first commercial releases from Ata Rangi Vineyards and Martinborough Vineyards in 1989.
==== Marlborough: Planting's commenced in 1973 by Montana Vineyards who experimented with Pinot Noir as a base for sparkling wine.
==== Nelson: Siefried Wines planted Pinot Noir vines in 1975.
==== Canterbury: St Helena was the pioneer, producing a gold medal winning Pinot Noir in 1982.
==== Central Otago: Romeo Bragato, New Zealand's first government viticulturist, noted in a visit to the country in 1895 that he though the region of Central Otago eminently suitable for the production of Pinot Noir. It was not until a hundred years later that his prediction was realised. Alan Brady is attributed to trialing Pinot Noir in the 1970's. The first commercial vineyards were Brady's Gibbston Valley and Rolf Mills's Rippon Vineyard further north in Wanaka.

The area really took off in the 1990's and is now New Zealand's fastest growing wine region with over 70% of its 2001 figure of 700 hectares of vines being Pinot Noir.

A Note from Sue Courtney:

I write about wine and have a website about wine because I have a passion for wine, a passion for writing and a passion for playing around with my computer. It was that first glass of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc that did it. It was 1988 and we had just spent a couple of months travelling around the South Island of New Zealand. With a couple of hours to spare before having to check-in for the ferry to the North Island - a 3 hour journey on some of the most treacherous waters in New Zealand - a stop in Blenheim to visit the Marlborough vineyards was hastily scheduled. We decided to visit Hunters Estate but got lost. Lucky for us, as we found Cloudy Bay!

It was 10.00 o'clock in the morning and I never imagined what it would be like to have the flavours of freshly bottled sauvignon blanc explode in the mouth. Aromas of freshly cut grass and flavours of passionfruit and gooseberry combined with refreshing acidity. No wonder the wine was such a hit with critics in the UK - a cult wine. We had never heard of Cloudy Bay prior to this day. Now it is world famous, sought by thousands. Lucky me. I buy a dozen every year.

That was the start of my love affair with wine, an affair that I want to share.

More about Sue at her website

Avalon welcomes her to our site and hope to offer more of her articles soon!