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L'Ecole winery is all grown upA good indication that L'Ecole No. 41 winery in Lowden has come of age is knowing the third-grader who designed the schoolhouse label is now 24. It's been 16 years since Ryan Campbell, a grandson of L'Ecole's founders, Baker and Jean Ferguson, won the family contest for a label design. There have been a lot of changes since then. Campbell is now old enough to drink the wine that carries his name. And the Fergusons passed on their legacy to their daughter Megan and her husband, Marty Clubb, in 1989. The same bright crayon drawing of a schoolhouse is still on the label, but the wines have shown a lot of maturity and expansion over the years, thanks to Marty Clubb. Even the winery, a former Lowden school, has been transformed into a modern tasting room stretching the width of the old school with a curved tasting bar and winery-related items ranging from imported oils to polo shirts. While the Walla Walla Valley is building its reputation on red wines, Marty Clubb has not given up his passion for white varieties, especially semillon. In fact, he makes three different semillons, probably something no other winery does. There also is a rich chardonnay and a dry chenin blanc with the catchy name of Walla Viola. However, even as good and interesting as his whites may be, it's his reds that have been getting rave reviews, including a Bordeaux blended red called Apogee and a cabernet sauvignon that's the equal of any of the outstanding Walla Walla cabernets from other wineries. Any tasting review of L'Ecole needs to start with the semillons. 1999 barrel fermented semillon - If you are tired of chardonnays, this is the wine for you. Smoky oak with some lemon and figs, melons and ripe pear. $14. 1999 Seven Hills Vineyard semillon - Heavy melons with earthy tones. Flinty, followed by a great farewell. $21. 1999 Fries Vineyard semillon - Big and buttery. Flavors of coconut, figs and lemons. Ripe fruit and a rich mouth feel. $21 1998 merlot, Walla Walla Valley - Perfume oak aromas with ripe Bing cherry flavors. Rich and satisfying. $35. 1998 cabernet sauvignon, Columbia Valley - A cabernet with a great pedigree from old block 1972 Sagemoor Vineyards and Klipsun Vineyards. There is a lot of depth, chewy with complex flavors and a distinctive richness. $29. 1998 cabernet sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley - Very rich with raspberry jam and toasty oak. Smooth tannins. $29. Wines that will be released in May include: 1999 merlot, Columbia Valley - Concentrated fruit, lush with smoky oak. A great red with meat. $27. 1999 merlot, Seven Hills Vineyard - Delicious chocolate and berry jam, smooth with an elegant, rich finish. $35. 1999 syrah, Seven Hills Vineyard - This is L'Ecole's first syrah. Plums and peppers, concentrated fruit, loaded with complex flavors and aromas. $35. Not available till late summer. New releasesWashington Hills 1999 sauvignon blanc - Light pineapple and tropical fruit aromas and flavors. Dry, clean and crisp; just right for food. $7.99 Washington Hills 1999 semillon - An outstanding dry white with classic fig and fruit flavors. A touch of citrus with a nice, smooth finish. Washington Hills 1999 semillon-chardonnay - Nice chardonnay aroma with a clean semillon finish. Great food wine. Bridgman 1999 viognier - Rich mouth feel with touches of spice, peach and honeysuckle. Good with Asian food. Washington Hills 2000 dry chenin blanc - Apples and pears with a bit of herb and a tart finish. Good with oysters. Washington Hills 2000 dry riesling - Great balance of fruit and acids with touches of grapefruit and tart green apples. Washington Hills 2000 riesling - Nice 1.8 residual sugar showing peaches and ripe apples with a lingering, crisp finish. Washington Hills 2000 gewürztraminer - Grapefruit married with honeysuckle aromas and a crisp finish. Pepi 1999 pinot grigio, Oregon - The Italian name for a pinot gris. This California winery uses Willamette Valley grapes to make a nice fruity white with touches of citrus and a rich finish. Pepi is part of the Kendall-Jackson family.
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