June 5, 2002
Kestrel Vintners of Prosser gets noticed

Kestrel Vintners of Prosser dropped off my radar screen until recently, when the Wine Press Northwest magazine tasting panel sampled six Kestrel wines and deemed four of them "Outstanding."

All Wine Press Northwest tastings are double blind, meaning the variety and label are kept secret until ratings are completed. The team must reach consensus to give an outstanding designation.

I had written about Kestrel in 1999 when John and Helen Walker first opened it in Prosser, but with more and more new wineries coming on since then, it has been difficult to return.

I'm glad I finally found the time, however, because Ray Sandidge is making some of the best red wines I've tasted lately.

Today the winery's grapes come from their estate vineyard near Prosser, which includes some vines planted 30 years ago by Mike Wallace.

Sandidge said the winery's goal is to make wines with a bit of age, and they purposely hold back vintages for an extra year or two.

Kestrel Vintners 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $25 - Voted "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest's tasting panel. A bold, rich cabernet with complex aromas of oak, coffee, dried black cherries and currants. It has a charming, inviting mouth feel and a big, flavorful finish.

Kestrel Vintners 1998 Old Vines Signature Merlot, Yakima Valley, $50 - Also voted Outstanding. Showing complexity and depth from old, low yield vines that offer dark, bold aromas and flavors, especially blackberries and chocolate. Good cellar potential.

Kestrel Vintners 1999 Signature Series Syrah, Yakima Valley, $50 - A big red, with dark fruit and heavy toast aromas. The richly structured palate offers flavors of chocolate cake and big plums.

Kestrel Vintners 2000 Syrah, Yakima Valley, $28 - The Wine Press Northwest panel thought this less expensive syrah was the best, giving it an Outstanding designation. Sophisticated, rich flavors with a sturdy backbone of blackberries, coffee and leather. Has rich acidity and great aging potential.

Kestrel Vintners 1998 Raptor Red, Yakima Valley, $50 - Also voted Outstanding. This blend of 62 percent merlot and 32 percent cabernet sauvignon from old vines was my favorite. Opening with opulent aromas of blackberries, oak and vanilla that lead to mouth-filling flavors of currants and berries. The finish is supple and appealing.