Jan. 22, 2003
Bookwalter Winery steps up, makes changes

Out with the old, in with the new is the slogan of venerable Bookwalter Winery of Richland, Wash.

Entering is 20th year, Bookwalter Winery has taken on Zelma Long, an internationally known winemaker, as a consultant and changed its label and tasting rooms.

The wine bottles sport a new label that contains a big "B" in a circle and "J. Bookwalter" written in script across the front.

John Bookwalter, son of founders Jerry and Jean Bookwalter, runs the operation now. His parents started making commercial wines in 1983 in their garage in Pasco.

John, who has been with the winery since 1997, wants to take it to a new level, and if a recent sampling of the new releases was an indication, he's on the right track.

Long, one of California's best-known winemakers, began making wines at Robert Mondavi in the '70s, then went on to make wines at Simi and her own Zelphi Winery. She visits Bookwalter a couple of times during the year to offer advice and encouragement to John Bookwalter.

She said she's more of a coach than anything else in her consulting business, which includes wineries as far away as Israel, South Africa and Germany.

She also is a consultant in the Walla Walla area for Buty Winery; a new winery run by John Abbott, formerly of Canoe Ridge Winery of Walla Walla; and Cuneo Cellars in Oregon.

With so many international and California clients, why bother with the Northwest?

"I have ties to the Pacific Northwest and like the spirit here where people want to progress with their winemaking," she said. Her father was from Dayton and her mother from Ritzville. Both attended Whitman College and she grew up in The Dalles, so it was no stretch for her to visit the Pacific Northwest.

She met John Bookwalter's dad, Jerry, whose expertise is in vineyard management, at a seminar, and they hit it off, with Long agreeing to be a consultant for Bookwalter.

"I don't make wine for people," she said. "It's my satisfaction to help winemakers achieve the goals they want."

John Bookwalter said he sees Long's help as furthering his on-the-job training, to help him turn out high quality wines at a reasonable price.

He said the 2000 vintages are the beginning of the wines that Long helped his winery craft.

Bookwalter produces about 10,000 cases yearly and has gone from 90 percent white wines to 60 percent red and 40 percent white.

Furthermore, the winery itself has undergone a change that other Mid-Columbia wineries should emulate, making the tasting room more attractive to tourists, with comfortable couches and chairs, bar stools and outside tables and chairs.

The Bookwalter lounge and patio opened late last year and is like a wine bar serving gourmet Northwest cheeses and breads along with 6-ounce glasses of Bookwalter wine.

Not only does it attract tourists, it also is a favorite spot for locals who want to linger a while.

I look for more wineries to offer ambiance of food and wine by the glass to attract visitors to their tasting rooms.

Here's a look at some of Bookwalter's current lineup:

Bookwalter Winery NV Lot 14 Red Wine, $15 - Very smooth and tasty with chocolate, light licorice and spice finish.

Bookwalter Winery 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, $36 - Supple richness with boysenberry flavors. Smoky vanilla aromas lead to wonderful rich tannins and a cinnamon finish.

Bookwalter Winery 2002 Johannisberg Riesling, $10 - Always a favorite, with 3 percent residual sugar. Juicy fruit peach and pear flavors, creamy and crisp. Great balance.

Bookwalter Winery 2002 Gewürztraminer, $10 - Grapefruit and citrus with aromas of nutmeg and cloves and touches of tangerines. The 2 percent residual sugar is well balanced for a crisp farewell.

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