Dec. 4, 2002
In 2002, Northwest Merlots
continue to shine

In the spring of 1998, the Tri-City Herald launched Wine Press Northwest magazine with a lead article boasting of a mammoth tasting of 45 Merlots.

Today, the magazine is mirroring the growth of the Pacific Northwest's wine industry with an article in the Winter 2002 edition about its tasting of 122 of the region's Merlots.

We've come a long way!

Merlot is one of the stars of the Pacific Northwest, and Washington in particular has gained an international reputation for its classic Merlots at reasonable prices.

At the same time, Wine Press Northwest has become an acclaimed regional wine magazine with subscribers in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, British Columbia and other states and provinces across North America.

In the 2002 tasting, 18 Merlots earned the magazine's "Outstanding" rating, 15 of them from wineries within 50 miles of the Tri-Cities.

Here's the "outstanding" lineup in order of preference:

Barnard Griffin 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $17 - Deep aromas of blackberries, vanilla, spice and oak and rich, smooth flavors of black cherries, mint and cola. And it has a finish that just doesn't quit. Pair with beef or lamb.

Columbia Crest 1999 Reserve Merlot, Columbia Valley, $28 - Opens with classic plum, vanilla and herbal aromas that give way to inky, spicy black fruit flavors with hints of cedar, deep concentration and a big, chocolate finish.

L'Ecole No. 41 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $30 - A combination of finesse and power with bright, rich, spicy aromas and deep, concentrated flavors. A wonderful mouth feel, terrific balance and soft tannins make this approachable now.

Kalamar Winery 2000 Merlot, Yakima Valley, $28 - The focus for this new winery is a Merlot that opens with rich, toasty aromas of black cherries, vanilla and black pepper and delicious, complex flavors with well managed tannins, great balance and a long finish.

Kestrel Vintners 1999 Old Vines Merlot, Yakima Valley, $50 - A long, elegant red with rich cherry and smoky aromas amid complex flavors and a finish that includes chocolate and black licorice notes.

Kestrel Vintners 1999 Boushey Vineyard Merlot, Yakima Valley, $50 - A nicely structured red showing off elegant plum, black cherry and raspberry aromas with ripe cherry and blackberry flavors, an intense midpalate and a chocolate finish. Somewhat aggressive tannins will help this pair well with a rare ribeye.

Powers Winery 1999 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $12 - A best buy. This merlot shows off ripe aromas of plums, vanilla, mocha and anise and opulent black fruit flavors with a lengthy finish and succulent tannins.

Russell Creek Winery 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $32 - This small, ultrapremium winery from Walla Walla shows rich cherry cola and cedar aromas and deep, intense flavors that finish with a blast of blackberries and chocolate. Racy acidity and supple tannins give the wine perfect balance and great food-pairing possibilities.

Walla Walla Vintners 2000 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $32 - An intense, luscious wine with ripe blackberry, smoky vanilla and spice aromas and bold, concentrated flavors of cherries, berries, bittersweet chocolate and hints of oak. Thick yet approachable tannins give this blockbuster wine great balance.

Yakima Cellars 2000 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $30 - A luscious wine with pepper, toasty oak and cherry aromas and richly structured palate that shows off intense, fruit-driven flavors. It's expertly backed up with aggressive tannins, bright acidity and a long finish.

Maryhill Winery 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $16 - Warm and approachable opening with aromas of chocolate-covered cherries, sweet spices and vanilla and richly structured flavors of blackberries, plums, cherries and an underlying spiciness. A delicious drink-now wine.

Tamarack Cellars 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $28 - Since its first vintage in 1997, this Walla Walla winery has produced consistently great merlot. The trend continues with deep, concentrated aromas of espresso, blackberry, chocolate and oak with rich flavors that are well balanced and approachable.

L'Ecole No. 41 2000 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $40 - This beauty is a bold yet graceful effort with rich oak, vanilla, cherry and dark chocolate aromas and flavors and tremendous balance throughout. Approachable in its youth, this also could be tucked away for another half decade or more.

Northstar 1999 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $50 - Northstar, which recently opened a $3 million facility south of Walla Walla, has produced a beautifully structured wine from start to finish, showing off concentrated aromas of vanilla, spice, oak and cherries, along with rich, jammy fruit and terrific tannin management.

Three Rivers Winery 2000 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $24 - A complex wine that opens with wonderful aromas of black fruit, oak, cola and an herbal undertone. The richly structured midpalate shows great concentration of fruit and leads to a long finish.