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Oregon's 2004 Pinot noirs RevisitedA 2007 Perspective & by
Jean Yates Re-evaluate 2004 in 2007? Why? While snapshots of a vintage when it's first produced provide valuable insights about quality and style, it's only in the longer term that a wine vintage can be deeply understood and evaluated. In January of 2005, Oregon's Pinot noirs were already being rated. Wine Spectator gave the vintage a "B+". Our website extolled the balance and quality of the wines, tasted from the barrels where they were still evolving. The vintage was touted as a more balanced, yet still rich vintage, a relief after the overly hot summer of 2003 produced many high alcohol, unbalanced wines. By June of 2006, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate had rated the vintage "90E"- "outstanding and early maturing". Wines from Ayoub, Bergstrom, and Shea were among the many "early arrivers" released, and the best of the 2004 vintage were grabbed up quickly, their balance and complexity impressing wine buyers and wine writers alike. Now, in early 2007, with most of the 2004's released and many long gone, the combination of dozens of sets of 2004 Oregon Pinot noir tasting notes and the longer perspective of two additional vintages since 2004 warrant a re-evaluation of the vintage. 2004 in A Nutshell 2004 in a nutshell: 2004 is the first of a series of three (so far) vintages where the best Oregon Pinot noirs are characterized by rich flavors, balanced tannins and a remarkably lovely uplifting, refreshing acidity. The warm summers that started in 1998 have continued, but the heat wave of 2003 has not recurred, and vineyard managers, at the best sites, have learned to manage canopy, water, and trellising to minimize heat stress. In addition, and most importantly, the cold nights of fall in Oregon have added balanced acidity and brightness to the wines, a most attractive quality, and one that makes the wines excellent with food.
2004 was the beginning of a trend... that is now clear. Just after the 2004 harvest, the vintage was considered by itself. Now, with the additional insights gained by two additional vintages, and the trends in weather patterns continuing towards warm summers and longer growing seasons, 2004 is clearly the beginning of a run of vintages with similar qualities. Each of the vintages since 2003 has similar circumstances leading to common traits. The heat of a warmer summer than pre-1998 produces plenty of sweet, intense fruit flavors. Oregon's coastal range's traditional cold falls have continued, and the cold evenings promote acidity, which balances the intense fruit and adds a highly pleasant and distinct finish to the wines that is uplifting and refreshing. This lovely balance of rich sweet fruit with uplifting acidity characterizes well made Oregon Pinot noirs made in 2004, 2005, and 2006. Avalon's Top 2004 Oregon Pinot noirs What were Avalon's choices for the top wines? Given that we do not have access to all of the wines made in Oregon, and we have closer relationships with some wineries, this is a list of the Pinot noirs we discovered, enjoyed, and sold, NOT a list of the top wines developed from a comprehensive tasting of every last 2004 Pinot made in the state. In other words, there are other, very good Pinots out there, we just don't have access to them. * Still available to
purchase Avalon's Top 2004 Oregon
Pinot noirs Beaux
Freres Estate $75 Avalon's Top Oregon Pinot
noirs Et
Fille Kalita $32 Avalon's Top Value Oregon
Pinot noirs Evesham
Wood WV $17 2004 Oregon Pinot noir Reviewed by Wine Spectator Reviews of the 2004 vintage came quickly after harvest. Wine Spectator declared Oregon's 2004 vintage a "B+" and Washington's a "B", in January, 2005, and said: "It was a year of extremes for Oregon growers. Late winter and early spring were exceptionally cool and dry, which kept the crop size down, then heat waves arrived in July and August. In Willamette Valley, grape sugar levels were peaking in late summer and harvest looked imminent, but then it was postponed by cool, wet weather that arrived in late August and again in mid-September. About three inches of rain fell overall, although southern Oregon received less. Harvest proceeded in fits and starts, and winemakers report that grapes weathered the storms remarkably well." Wine Spectator has reviewed 156 2004 Oregon Pinot noirs. Fifty of the 2004 wines received 91 or more points, compared to 52 of the 208 wines of the 2003 vintage that were reviewed. Here are Wine Spectator's
top 50 Oregon Pinot noirs Beaux Frères
Pinot Noir Willamette Valley The Beaux Frères
Vineyard 95 $75 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Scores for the 2004 Vintage Beaux Freres does not appear on this list as it is partially owned by Robert Parker Ken
Wright Cellars Pinot Noir Nysa Vineyard 93
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