Andy Perdue's
Pacific Northwest
Wines of the Week Archive

King Estate
Chardonnay
Reserve 98

King Estate is one of Oregon's most visible wineries. Its distribution reaches across the continent, and it's safe to say that King Estate probably appears on as many restaurant wine lists as any Oregon winery. In a complex that looks like a Tuscan hilltown from the highway, King Estate crafts some of Oregon's most beautiful white wines, and this richly structured Chardonnay is no exception. It offers lovely tropical fruit aromas and flavors with nutty undertones and is well balanced with a delicious finish.

Food matches: Salmon, shellfish or roasted pork should pair well with this big wine.

VAN DUZER VINEYARDS 1999 BARREL SELECT PINOT NOIR

Appellation: Willamette Valley

If you love Oregon Pinot Noir, now is a great time to be alive. The Willamette Valley has enjoyed four consecutive vintages with relativelydry harvests and high-quality fruit. The 1999 vintage may be the best of the bunch, and this offering from Van Duzer Vineyards is a wonderful example with classic violet and earthy aromas with hints of red currants, black fruit, a jammy midpalate and supple, approachable tannins. It's easy to wax poetic about this complex wine.

Rated "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest.

Food matches: Lamb chops, roast pork, cornish game hens
or pasta will pair well with this Pinot Noir.

Appellation: Columbia Valley

When winemaker Greg Powers released the 1997 vintage of this Bordeaux-style red blend, it was a big, ripe, juicy wine. Not bad for a mistake. The wine was meant for another blend, but the barrel was overlooked in the winery. The wine was so good, Powers decided to create a label for it. It's no accident, however, that the '98 is so good. An expert blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it's a complex, layered wine worthy of cellaring, if you can wait. It has tempting aromas of sasparilla, sweet spice and plums, with black cherries, "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest magazine.

Food matches: Steak cuts, beef dishes with tomato-based sauces, chocolate.

POWERS WINS IN TORONTO

Speaking of Powers Winery and Parallel 46, the red blend was ranked No. 1 last week at the annual Pacific Northwest Wine Fair in Toronto. It was selected first in a blind tasting of 40 judges.

Other wines in the judging included 1997 Ridge Montebello, 1998 Gordon Brothers Tradition, 1998 Hedges Red Mountain Reserve, 1998 Pepper Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon and 1997 Mondavi Reserve.

At $30, the Powers wine also was the least expensive.!!!!

January 10,2002

Rex Hill Vineyards
Jacob Hart Vineyard Pinot Noir 1999

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Lynn Penner-Ash came to Oregon from her native California in the late '80s to make wine at Rex Hill Vineyards and now is considered one of the state's top winemakers. Her focus on Pinot Noir is intense, as she
crafts as many as 10 different bottlings a year, including one for her own winery, Penner-Ash Cellars, which she launched in 1998.

Her wines, especially the reserve and vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs, are nothing short of spectacular, and the Jacob-Hart Vineyard wine is no exception. The grapes are from an estate vineyard, named for the winery owners, Paul Hart and Jan Jacobsen. It has inviting smoky plum aromas perfectly balanced with loads of complex cherry jam and black fruit flavors. It's a complete, layered wine with a touch of mocha on the finish. Rated "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest magazine.

Food matches: This elegant wine would match well with
lamb or beef dishes that aren't too spicy.

MORE ON REX HILL VINEYARDS

Just before Christmas, I spent a morning at Rex Hill
Vineyards tasting with winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash. In
addition to her outstanding Jacob-Hart Pinot Noir above,
others that impressed me were:

-- Willamette Valley Pinot Noir: This, the
winery's flagship wine, is an elegant, approachable red
with smooth, ripe berries, velvety tannins and layers of
earth and tobacco nuances.

-- Reserve Pinot Noir: This is a blend of the best
barrels from Rex Hill's vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs,
resulting in a rich, complex wine with petite berry and
violet aromas and ripe fruit showing off sweet oak
nuances.

-- Vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs: These
wines come from a number of top vineyards, including
Maresh, Seven Springs and Croft. Each shows off that
vineyard's nuances, and any would be a prized possession
for Pinot Noir lovers.

-- Kings Ridge Pinot Noir: Don't overlook this
value-priced red that is defined by its gentle,
approachable style. It holds its own amid its
higher-priced siblings with earthy, black fruit aromas,
touches of vanilla, a round mouth feel and a medium
finish.

-- Penner-Ash Cellars Pinot Noir: This is the
small, separate winery for Rex Hill President/Winemaker
Lynn Penner-Ash. It's a richer and more muscular wine
than those she crafts for Rex Hill and is loaded with
rich cherry and blackberry aromas and flavors with
complex layers of coffee and mocha and a long,
fruit-driven finish.

Waterbrook Winery
2002 Sauvignon Blanc
Klipsun Vineyard Appellation: Red Mountain

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The two wine regions in the Pacific Northwest with the loudest consumer buzz are Walla Walla and Red Mountain. They're hot because Walla Walla's wineries are producing top-grade red wines and Red Mountain is growing some of Washington's best red wine grapes.

This week's wine pick, however, highlights the two regions' ability to create a delicious white wine. Waterbrook is one of the Walla Walla Valley's older wineries and makes a lot of wine from Klipsun Vineyard grapes, which is Red Mountain's best-known grower. This deliciously crisp white wine is loaded with pear aromas and orange peel and lemon flavors with plenty of food-friendly acidity.

Winters Hill
Pinot Gris 2000

more about Winters Hill

Pinot gris is Oregon's most popular white wine, outstripping even America's most popular wine (chardonnay). Pinot gris plantings in Oregon now 1,442 acres, 14 percent of the state's total. And for good reason. Pinot gris often is a fruit-driven wine that matches as well with food as any. Winter's Hill Vineyard in Oregon's Yamhill County is a fairly new operation that is making top pinot gris at affordable prices. The 2000 vintage is loaded with lemon and flinty aromas that lead to dried pineapple and fresh lemon flavors and a soft, smooth finish.

Food matches: Salmon or shellfish would be a great pairing. It also would do well on the Thanksgiving Day table.

October 23, 2001

Dundee Springs 1998
Reserve pinot noir
$36.99

Appellation: Oregon

After three challenging vintages, Oregon pinot noir lovers were ready for something positive. But 1998 didn't start out that way, with springweather damaging the crop and cutting it way down. But what remained was wonderous, as a warm summer and fall gave vintners something to smile about. 1998 was the first of three great vintages (and counting) for Western Oregon. Dundee Springs Winery, established in 1990, focuses on three pinots: noir, gris and blanc. From its Perry Bower Vineyard comes this complex pinot noir loaded with cerebral aromas, including mint, licorice, earth, berries and an herbal undertone. Bright strawberries and raspberries highlight the flavor components. It's smooth and inviting to the end.

Regular $15.00
sale $9.99

"This grape variety is rare indeed. Covey Run Vintners is one of the few wineries producing Morio muskat, which isn't part of the muscat family but is a cross between Silvaner and pinot blanc and was developed in the '20s by German Peter Morio. The grapes are grown at Upland Vineyard near Sunnyside, which has one of the only plantings of tMorio muskat in the United States. It's an outrageously aromatic wine that is loaded with fresh tropical fruit flavors. It's a sweeter, lower-alcohol wine, making it perfect for brunches or picnics." Andy Perdue

An ideal summer wine, Morio Muskat has succulent aromas of ripe tangerine, kiwi, clover, and meadow flowers. Its light body and great flavors make this wine sweet, but never heavy or overwhelming. food affinities: Serve this unique white wine with fruit, mild cheeses, pastries or desserts. Morio Muskat has always been a favorite for picnics, as an aperitif or for sipping after a long day. .

Appellation: Umpqua Valley

In Southern Oregon near Roseburg is this little winery
run by Earl and Hilda Jones, two of the nicest folks
you're likely to meet. Abacela (an old Castilian word
that means "to plant grapevines") specializes in a
number of unusual (for the Northwest) grape varieties,
including tempranillo, dolcetto, malbec and grenache.
One of its more mainstream wines is its cabernet franc,
itself a somewhat minor grape among wineries as well as
consumers. This approachable wine is loaded with rich
herbal and mocha aromas, followed by flavors of bing
cherries and a light toastiness from oak aging. This
refined, beguiling wine is one of the best cabernet
francs you'll find and was rated "Oustanding" by Wine
Press Northwest magazine.

Food matches: This delicious red wine would go well with
a number of beef cuts, lamb dishes, pasta with red sauce
or a variety of hard cheeses such as romano.

Balcom & Moe Winery 1998 merlot
Appellation: Washington

It was 1971 when young Maury Balcom began planting grapes in Washington's Columbia Valley. Three decades later, he's producing absolutely beautiful wines, and this merlot is one of the best you'll find. It offers up long blackberry and sweet oak aromas and rich fruit flavors. The terrific balance of fruit and tannins on this huge wine will make you want to drink it now with a thick steak, but it also will reward patience in the cellar. This merlot, rated "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest, is high in our Wow List.

Price: $17. An affordable merlot, especially for the quality, this should be available at wine shops and groceries with better wine selections.

Food matches: Marbled ribeye and other quality meat cuts are a great match for this big wine. Also try hard cheeses and pasta with rich red sauces.

June 25, 2001

Eola Hills Wine Cellars
1999 Chardonnay
$11.99

Perhaps as much as any region in the world, Oregon is working on clonal selection. In the wine world, clones simply are members of a particular grape, such as pinot noir. Clones can impart different flavors, ripen earlier and work better in certain soil types and at various elevations. Willamette Valley vintners experiment extensively with pinot noir and chardonnay clones, and that work will pay off for consumers long term.

An example of an excellent Oregon Chardonnay is this one from Eola Hills Wine Cellars. It offers pleasant oak aromas, great balance and fine, rich flavors. The lovely, lingering finish will leave a satisfying smile. In Wine Press Northwest's recent evaluation of nearly 100 Northwest chardonnays, this was the highest-rated Oregon wine.

The tropical fruits and pear flavors of this Chardonnay coupled with the subtle crisp finish make this a surprisingly diverse wine. Grilled or lightly smoked fish or poultry work particularly well.

Arbor Crest
Wine Cellars
1999 Chardonnay
$9.99

Appellation: Columbia Valley

Spokane isn't always thought of as wine country, but it is home to at least six wineries that are producing excellent wine.

Arbor Crest is going through a bit of a renaissance, with new winemaker Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels leading it to new heights in quality.

This improvement was dramatically evidenced by Wine Press Northwest's recent blind tasting of nearly 100 Northwest chardonnays, in which both of Kristina's chardonnays (Columbia Valley and Conner Lee Vineyard) finished with the coveted "Outstanding" rating.

Remarkably, the Columbia Valley wine, one of the least expensive in the tasting, was our top chardonnay. It has a toasty oak beginning with butter and apple aromas and loads of flavors, including tropical fruit, apples and spice. A long, rich finish will leave your palate satisfied.

Food matches: This wine is a great summer sipper with grilled chicken. If you want to go for something a little special, try it with grilled halibut or swordfish with a mango salsa.

Wine of the Week for May 19:

Canoe Ridge Vineyard
1998 Cabernet sauvignon
Appellation: Columbia Valley--
$28.00 ----

Chalone, a large, publicly traded wine producer, was the first California company to open a winery in Washington when it opened Canoe Ridge Vineyard in Walla Walla in the early '90s. It's since expanded that investment by purchasing Staton Hills Winery (now Sagelands) in Wapato, in the western Yakima Valley. It also recently bought out local investors in the vineyard, which sits on a ridge overlooking the Columbia River in the eastern end of the Gorge.

Canoe Ridge winemaker John Abbott has made red and white wines of great distinction since his arrival, and this cabernet sauvignon is no exception. Its robust oak and spice aromas are followed by flavors of ripe bing cherries, a touch of vanilla spice and a big, smooth chocolate finish. It's a huge wine that was rated "Outstanding" in the latest issue of Wine Press Northwest.

Food matches: It's barbecue season, and this cab will go deliciously with grilled meats, especially flank steak or T-bone. Or enjoy with a hearty plate of pasta with meatballs.

Wine of the Week for May 10:

Ste. Chapelle
nonvintage sparkling brut

$9.49 -----

Idaho's oldest and largest winery is Ste. Chapelle, established in 1976. It's in a beautiful French-style building in Caldwell, Idaho, and is named after La Sainte Chapelle in Paris, built by Louis IX as the court chapel in the 13th century. Purchased by Corus Brands of Woodinville in 1997, Ste. Chapelle was purchased earlier this year by Canandaigua, the world's second-largest wine company.

Ste. Chapelle is known for its delicious red and white wines and excells in many areas, including sparkling wines. This dry bubbly has tasty yeasty overtones and a crisp Granny Smith apple flavor.

This is a steal that shouldn't be difficult to track down in groceries, as Ste. Chapelle has excellent distribution throughout the Pacific Northwest.

Food matches: Sparkling wine is one of the most versatile of food wines, and this is an especially good match for oysters, grilled vegetables, chicken with an herb sauce, risotto or a cobb salad.

Columbia Crest 1999
Grand Estates Chardonnay

Appellation: Columbia Valley

Is he Merlin or Midas? Actually, he's Doug Gore, but seemingly everything he touches is magic and turns to gold (or silver or bronze). And this wine is no different for the man who crafts more wine than anyone in the Pacific Northwest.

Grand Estates is a new line of wines for Columbia Crest, which succeeds its "Estate" series. This chardonnay, the first release, is a stunner, with great integration of vanilla, oak and ripe fruit. This big, buttery chardonnay ends with a long, satisfying finish. This is one of the best chardonnays you'll taste, guaranteed. Rated "Outstanding" in the upcoming issue of Wine Press Northwest magazine.

Food matches: Most seafoods will be appropriate for this chardonnay, especially grilled salmon. It also will go elegantly with chicken with a light herb seasoning.

91 pts.Wine Spectator - April 30, 2001
Harvey Steiman says: "Rich and vibrant, beautifully focused to show off its plush honey, spice and smoke-accented pear and apricot flavors. Finish is seductively polished and as smooth as a Jean Arp sculpture."

Wines of the Week 4/14/01
Columbia Winery 1999 semillon

$9.99

Appellation: Columbia Valley

Semillon is an often-overlooked grape, partly because it goes into white Bordeaux, which is overshadowed by the more famous and spendy reds from that great French wine region. In Washington, semillon thrives in the hot Columbia Valley and results in wines of great distinction.

Columbia Winery's 1999 semillon is loaded with delicious characteristics, including herbs, spices, vanilla, citrus and the characteristic fresh figs. If you want a terrific alternative to chardonnay, give this semillon a try.

Food matches: This goes nicely with raw or barbecued oysters. Also try it with poultry in an herb sauce, seafood risotto or grilled vegetables.

Wines of the Week 4/6/01

Dunham Cellars
1998 Cabernet Sauvignon IV 98
$59.99 -----
from Andy Perdue, Wine Press NW
Eric Dunham got his start as an assistant winemaker at famed L'Ecole No. 41 in Lowden, west of Walla Walla, Wash. He began making wine under his own label in 1995, and each release of his cabernet sauvignon has been received with excitement and acclaim.

The 1998 vintage is no exception, as it already has won gold medals at the Northwest Wine Summit and Tri-Cities Wine Festival and was rated by Wine Press Northwest as "Outstanding."

This incredible cabernet has bright, delicious cherry fruit, essences of cedar, Java pepper, ripe plums and smooth tannins.

Food matches: A wine like this matches wonderfully with top beef cuts, pasta with rich red sauces, grilled vegetables or dark chocolate.

Russell Creek Merlot 99
$39.99 -----

One of the Walla Walla Valley's newest wineries is meeting the challenge of being in a region rich with big, red wines.

This merlot opens with dark cherry aromas and nice dried fruit and dark flavors. Great tannins and nice oak treatment make this a classy wine with a terrific finish.
Rated Double Gold by
Wine Press Northwest.

Wine of the Week 3/31/01
Hogue Cellars 2000
Johannisberg riesling
$7.99  ----
from Andy Perdue, Wine Press NW

Washington winemakers and consumers alike are eagerly anticipating the release of wines from the 2000 vintage. This is an early glimpse of Washington's biggest harvest from one of its largest and most consistent quality producers.

This wonderful white wine, a benchmark for Washington, offers inviting floral aromas followed by classic orange, apple and peach flavors and a delightfully crisp farewell.

Residual sugar is 1.7 percent, giving it a nice kiss of sweetness. Tasty from start to finish, this wine was rated "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest magazine.

Food matches: The crisp yet delicate nature of this riesling makes it a perfect match for seafood, especially steamed clams, raw oysters or shrimp cocktails. Also consider chicken with an herb sauce or an Asian noodle dish. Also perfect for picnics.

Wine of the Week 3/23/01
from Andy Perdue,
Wine Press NW
Torii Mor Pinot Noir 99
$25.99 -----

It's safe to call Torii Mor a "cult winery" because it has such a strong following and its wines are so highly regarded and sought.

This producer of some of Oregon's best pinot noirs has a new winemaker, Joe Dobbes, who also makes wine for Willamette Valley Vineyards, Tualatin Estate and Griffin Creek, all of Oregon. A recent tasting of four Torii Mor pinot noirs showed high-quality consistency across the board.

This week's wine, Torii Mor's least expensive, has complex aromas and incredibly sophisticated oak and balance. It is a marvelous and amazingly rich wine that was rated "Outstanding" by Wine Press Northwest magazine.

Food matches: Try venison medallions with a huckleberry chutney, wild mushrooms, duck in a light sauce, pasta
with pesto or simply olive oil, risotto, braised lamb, quail, grilled vegetables or Oregon blue or savory cheeses.

Wine Press Northwest says: Outstanding. A tremendous wine with complex aromas and incredibly sophisticated oak and balance. A marvelous and amazingly rich wine.

Wines of the Week 3/19/01
from Andy Perdue, Wine Press NW

Glen Fiona
Bacchus
Syrah 99
$28.99 ---

Glen Fiona is the creation of Walla Walla native Berle "Rusty" Figgins, the so-called Shah of Syrah who makes nothing but this red wine grape associated with France's Rhone Valley.

Rusty spent some time in Australia, wherethe famous grape is known as shiraz. When he returned to the states, he opened Glen Fiona in 1995 and quickly gained fame, winning best of show at a major Seattle
judging in 1997.

He makes several styles of syrah from various areas of Washington's Columbia Valley. Our wine of the week, from the famed Bacchus Vineyard overlooking the Columbia River north of Pasco, is a classy red that is big, bold and inky with outstanding structure.

It begins with aromas of plums and tart cherries and follows with chocolate, vanilla, dark fruit and a big finish. This won a gold medal at last fall's Tri-Cities Wine Festival and was deemed Double Gold by Wine Press Northwest magazine.

Food matches: Lamb dishes will pair nicely with syrah. And this particular Glen Fiona syrah matches nicely with a peppercorn steak or pasta with spicy red sauce. Or pour a glass during the cheese course of your next dinner party and make sure to include Stilton.

Winters Hill
Pinot Gris 99 --
$13.99 -----

Gold Medal McMinnville Feb 2001
Pinot gris, a relative to the better known pinot noir, is becoming Oregon's trademark white wine and is being planted throughout the Pacific Northwest. It is commonly associated with the Alsace region of France, Germany, Hungary (where it is known as Grauer Monch, or Gray Monk) and Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio).

Winter's Hill, a new winery in Lafayette, Ore., is off to a great start with its pinot gris, which is filled with luscious aromas of pear and citrus. It has plenty of flavor and offers a long, crisp, delicious finish.

This is a favorite Pinot Gris of Ann's, and has been received with delight by customers at the store. Check it out! The wine was Wine of the Week at Wine Press NW and received a GOLD MEDAL at the McMinnville Food and Wine Classic on Feb 2001..

Food matches: This will go nicely with shellfish, sole or Asian-inspired dishes. A crisp pinot gris also is hard to beat as an aperitif wine.

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---

Cole Danehower on
Oregon Wine

This is the best guide, bar none, to Oregon's wines. Insightful articles, interesting reviews, in depth interviews- you'll find them all here. Worth every penny if you're interested in Oregon wine.

Andy Perdue
on
Northwest Wine

Andy is editor of
Wine Press NW

Check it out!