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November 13 , 2002--Delille Founder Interview-Patty Green Cellars Tasting Notes-Toasty Oak Redux
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Highest rated NW Wines-
updated 11/14/02

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October 2002

updated 11/14/02

Parker and Wine Spectator
High Rated Wines

updated 11/14/02


ERRATA-

I invented a wine that Sineann does not make! I emailed about the Sineann Hillside Zinfandel last week, and it is Merlot! There is however a Sineann Old Vine Zinfandel. If you have been the victim of my mistake, contact me and I will get your order straightened out. My apologies!-- Jean



Jean Yates,
Avalon owner
Jean's
Kitchen Sink
Picks
of the Week

What's on the kitchen sink this week? My extravagance of the week, a bottle of Beaux Freres 2000 Estate- yumm-- sort of a shame to drink it so young but I have to keep track of how the key wines of each vintage are maturing- yea really- good excuse, Jean... It was pretty closed last year when I first tried it but has really opened up and is delightful right now- major hit of blueberries to my palate, although Mike's tasting notes don't mention it (article to right of this one). I keep coming back to this particular wine as somehow, for me it is a bellweather for the whole 2000 vintage... It just seems to embody the essence of Oregon winemaking.

Also on the sink, mushrooms from the forest above my house, chantrelles in piles, bright orange and dusted with fir bark, earthy and vibrantly fresh. Sauteed with a little unsalted butter and a grind of black pepper, they are ambrosia when served with a bottle of Soléna Cab- mind bogglingly good. The hit of rose petals and violets that is so strong on the finish of this wine just combines wonderfully with the chantrelles. And although a full-bodied wine, it is so complex that there are spaces between the flavors for the chantrelles to shine through. Heaven!


Oregon Hazelnuts

Buttery, Crunchy, Rich

The new crop of hazelnuts is in and I am revelling in them, especially as we found a new and excellent source. Evergreen Orchards just started shipping a very high grade of hazelnut to us
and if you'd like a delicious treat,
check them out here!


Euphoria
Chocolate Truffles

make great gifts!




Bergstrom
New Vintages
Available Now!
Chardonnay 2001
Pinot Noir 2001
Pinot Noir Arcus 2001
Pinot Noir Cumberland 2001 (very limited)

Bergstrom Pinot Noir 2000
still available!

90 pts in Wine Spectator,

This 2000 vintage is drinking wonderfully right now, one of Avalon's favorites from 2000!




"DeLille Cellars:
Family history comes full circle
for Washington winery"
by Christina Kelly, Avalon Staff Writer

When Charles Lill came to North America in the 1950s from Europe, he had $20 in his pocket, a new wife, and burgeoning hopes of a new life
in a country willing to take him.
READ THE STORY HERE

DeLille Cellars D2 2000
Bordeaux Style Blend
Very limited- just released
order here


Beaux Freres
Estate Pinot Noir 2000

A retaste

This wine, like all Beaux Freres' Estate wines, is made for cellaring and will greatly benefit the patient wine affectionado- however, it's always nice to know what is going on with the vintage- Here are Mike's notes for the 2000 Pinot Noir Beaux Frères Vineyard as of this fall:

"Dense ruby-colored with plenty of purple hues. The nose offers aromas of white flowers intermixed with sweet black cherries and a hint of Oregon huckleberries. Medium to full-bodied, fat, and fleshy, with good acidity and ripe tannin, it is just beginning to shrug off its early bottling slumber and strut its stuff. We thought it was as good as the 1999, but from bottle it has seemed muted. As of mid-summer, 2002, it appears to be putting on weight and developing beautifully. It is a very successful vintage for the Beaux Frères Vineyard, and should be at its best between 2003-2013."
-Mike Etzel

We continue to recommend this wine as one of the 2000 vintage's best, and suggest it as a cellar selection for collectors serious about aging the best Oregon pinot noirs. We still have good supply of this wine and will continue to issue updates on the vintage as it matures. - JY

Toasty Oak-
That Flavor we Love (to hate?)
Week 2

Here's a letter we received from Brian D. in response our request for comments on the role of toasty oak barrel flavors in the flavors of wines.
He says:
"In response to the issue of oak and toast in wine raised in the current issue of your newsletter, I am of the strong opinion that oak is overused by too many winemakers to appeal to the American palate. This is not a de novo problem, rather, American wine drinkers have been led down the path to over-oaking by wine critics in their zeal to extol the virtues of similar wines - the overuse of oak was a natural followup in that "if some is good, more must be better."

I suspect that this all got its start with the Australians using oak barrel surrogates, e.g., oak chips or "tea bags." Then it became like an arms war to see who could incorporate more oak into the wines. Americans, for the most part, never feeling secure enough to select their own wines, followed the critics and ersatz critics (promoters) recommendations. Most of the over-oaked wines are in the mid to lower price arena, where oak is intended to hide poor wine, just as cold can hide defects in white wine, or to quote Oz Clark, "Some wine should be served frozen on a stick."

And so it is with oak, though there a few high-end products that are over-oaked. And
the poor (pour) American drinker has been taken in and has come to demand that flavor profile.

That having been said, I do feel that oak has a role in "rounding out" a wine, when used properly. It contributes to Chardonnay and white Burgundy, if used judiciously, that is the proper oak (source), toast level, and per cent new vs older barrels. I do not approve of, nor enjoy the use of oak with Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Viognier, or now, even Muscadet, where the fresh, bracing acidity is a necessary part of the wine's typicity and
traditional flavor profile, and is obscured by even small amounts of oak. It is more forgiving with red wines, where more oak can be used with "big" wines, less with lighter wines. The oak flavor profile will, over time,
integrate more with the fruit of the wine, if it be red, less so with white wines, unless they are Chardonnays that have not seen ML, or only partial ML, and with big white Burgundies. With Pinot Noir, the legendary Jacques Lardiere of Maison Louis Jadot uses little or no oak with great wines and some with lesser wines to "flesh them out." This is the converse of what most winemakers are doing today, but it is hard to argue with success.

Ultimately, for me, toast/oak should complement the wine, be almost imperceptable, and not overwhelm the fruit flavors. I think that one will, indeed, go to "Wine Hell" for preferring "toasty wines." But, this is one man's opinion and not the gospel - let your own taste/palate be your guide. No one can tell you what you like or do not like.

Hope that I have contributed something to the fray, and eager to hear what others have to say."





Dunham
Cabernet Sauvignon 99
SALE $43.99 -- ($39.59 case)
regular $49.99

Dark, ripe and complex, this wine is dominated by ripe plum and black cherry on the nose, followed by a mouthful of blackberry, mint, anise and a touch of mocha. The fine, soft tannins ride over a bed of lush, exotic fruit in the lingering finish. Rated "outstanding" in Wine Press NW, "Cult wine" in Seattle Times,

90 Points in Wine Spectator:
"Dark, ripe and generous with its blackberry and currant flavors, finishing with soft tannins and a wide-open feel. Approachable now. Drink now through 2006. 1,776 cases made. (HS)"

order here


PGC 2001
Tasting Notes

Jim Anderson (Patty Green's business partner) brought all of the new 2001 wines to us this week and we tasted through the bunch. Here are our notes on ageability, drink now or later, and the characteristics of each wine....
----------------> READ HERE


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And here as promised
is one side of the debate:

Toasty oak-
the anathema of wine

The scent, flavor, and texture of wine should be derived from elements related to the vineyard- the grapes, the stems, the soil, the pollen in the air that lands on grape skins, the lees, the leaves, all are legitimate factors that can be used and even manipulated (to some degree) to create wine.

Flavors exterior to the wine are not ok- although the aging of wine in wooden barrels has a long tradition, the use of the flavors of toasted oak to impart buttery, caramelly, and other such flavors has no place in winemaking. Inexpensive wines that are fattened up with toasted oak flavor chips are bad enough, but to use toast to effect the flavors of higher end wines is unfair and can be deceptive.

The toast imparts a pleasant flavor when the wine is first released The winemaker may use toast to guarantee a pleasant taste when the wine is being reviewed and considered for purchase- but a wine that is aged in a cellar for years will lose the toasty flavor. Buyer beware, drink those toasty monsters early, because what lies benweath the toast may not be what you thought you were purchasing.

Ok, now somebody take the other side of the debate, .... and know that what I wrote above is just one side of the story, and does not reflect the totality of my views on toast.-JY

 

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