Newsletter October 3, 2002

Jean's Picks of the Week

Cole told me to start this section, so blame him if you think it's too "personality cultish" but he says customers want to know my opinions. Anyway, here's my unvarnished truths, if you want'em

Here's what's in my kitchen, half consumed and waiting for dinner- keep in mind I often drink wine on release, many of the wines I drink would benefit from cellaring but I have to try them so I know what's going on- (tough job!)

Solena Cab, because the silky finish with violets and roses just keeps coming, and because I love how Laurent's wines are so clear- he never hides them behind the usual trick ponies- over oaked, over toasted, over alcohol- never. I find nuances in his wines that give me greater insights to the personality of the grape varietals. Oh, and his baby's so cute, gotta keep her in huggies! The rest of my stash of his wine is going to be cellared for at least 4 years.

Andrew Will Champoux Red Table Wine, because I have been waiting for this one since he gave me a taste back in February. Not many wines haunt me, but this one has. I'm a big fan of Chris Camarda, I admire his courage for not going for the easy high score by plushing up his wines on release. This one needs airing, I decanted it this morning and will probably not see it at its best until tomorrow. But what a complex, fascinating wine, really expresses the terroir of the Champoux Vineyard and I think his moving from an all Cab to a blended wine has taken his Champoux vineyard offering over the top.

Columbia Crest Walter Cloré Red Table Wine- it scares me how rich and mouthwatering this wine is for $29.99. I am scared for CA wineries who want $60 and up for similar wine! Now this wine is not all about complexity, it's about opulence, and they have pulled out the toasty oak, the huge fruit flavors, the hedonistic qualities of NW red fruit. Had this several times with steak, ribs, and I keep coming back to it for a sipper with a big bowl of hearty soup, now that it's getting cold. It rocks with grilled cheese (gouda on kalamata olive bread)

St Innocent Brut 98- blown away, totally blown away by this wine- Mark makes this for The Herbfarm Restaurant and we weren't able to get much but we scored this year- what I love most is how well this sparkler works with food- everything I have tried it with, it harmonizes and enhances. From sorbet to duck to salmon, the wine seems to change its character to match the food. He also made a tiny bit of Brut with a slightly higher sugar level- trying it and will let you know next week.

Pascal Quartet- well this winery came and went pretty quick- rumors are that Joe Dobbes, late of Willamette Valley Vineyards, might buy it for his own label. I love this wine for it's Southern Oregon heat, the unusual flavor profile, and how Ray's barbeque dances in my mouth with it. This wine is a harbinger of things to come from Southern Oregon, an exciting source of wonderful Cab, Merlot, and Syrah grapes. (Ray is a neighbor who is just about the best barbeque cook in the NW, some of us say the world. Ask anyone who's come over for one of his meals!)