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"A Winery with a
Flock of Many Colors"”
By Christina Kelly
Avalon Editor/Writer
Red,
Rosso, Rouge—names that
describe the color of red, but not necessarily names that describe
a wine.
Lone
Canary Winery, located in Spokane, Wash, infused its wine offerings
using different languages
to describe red—Rosso
for an Italian blend, Rouge signifying a Bordeaux blend or French
style of wine, and Red, for an American-style of blended wine.
Problem
is, the public didn’t automatically assume that
Russo was an Italian-style wine, Rouge was French and Red was
American—most thought it was all the same wine. Winemaker
Mike Scott and his business partners, Jeanne and Steve Schaub
decided to change the names to reflect more of what was inside
the bottle, not just the color.
“The end consumer was puzzled by it all,” said Scott,
the affable winemaker originally from England. “If the
general public has to asked that many questions—despite
the fact that they liked the wine—then it was time to change.
It isn’t very good marketing when there is that much confusion.”
The Rosso will stay Rosso, but the Lone Canary label will indicate
the wine is Sangiovese. The Rouge will be a Cabernet/Merlot blend,
but will have a new name, yet to be determined.
“Rouge was just a tough name for many people to understand—lots
of people thought it was something grandmother put on her cheeks
for color,” said Steve Schaub, one of Lone Canary’s
owners.
The winery will keep Lone Canary Red as the same blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. In addition, the winery offers a
2004 Sauvignon Blanc that is sharp and crisp and a lovely summer
quaffer.
For the Love of Yakima Valley Fruit
This
year, the winery will increase its offering to include a 2004
Barbera and two vineyard-designated
wines—a DuBrul
Vineyard Reserve blend (with more Merlot) and a Willard Family
Vineyard blend (with a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon).
Scott is a big fan of fruit grown in the Yakima Valley and wanted
to showcase that fruit in the bottle.
“The discovery didn’t happen overnight—it
wasn’t dramatic, but my love of that fruit grew in the
course of 10 vintages” Scott said. “Year in and year
out, the elegance and refinement of Yakima Valley fruit has been
consistent.”
Scott said the aromatics of Yakima fruit are gorgeous, with
perfumed high notes, creating a structured wine that tends to
be bright and complex. Although he has purchased fruit from the
Walla Walla and Columbia valley regions in the past, he always
goes back to Yakima, a region he believes is deserving of more
attention and accolades.
Many people, said Scott, tend to confuse big flavors with a
lot of flavors. Yakima Valley fruit does not produce big flavors,
but rather lots of layers of flavors to be discovered.
“It’s like the difference between MTV live, and
MTV unplugged,” Scott said. “The fruit for our wines
is the acoustic version—you may not have the volume, but
you will hear all the definitions of the music and subtleties
you won’t hear with big volume. The wine is the same—it
is not huge with overripe flavors, but has lovely definitions
and a pure sense of what a wine should be, especially when paired
with food.”
From
England to Washington—Planting
Roots in Spokane
Scott learned his wine appreciation the hard way, with no thought
of being a winemaker when he first came to the United States
in 1980. In fact, he recalls he was looking for any type of work,
admitting he came to the U.S. to pursue a love interest with
no particular professional skills.
He landed in Spokane, Wash, and worked with Jack Warden who
had a winery near downtown. Scott said he enjoyed the winery
work and was looking to do more when Mike Conroy opened up Latah
Creek Winery in 1983. Although the love interest had dwindled,
his thirst for winemaking landed him as assistant winemaker for
Latah Creek.
“I taught him everything he knows about wine,” laughed
Conroy. “He worked in the tasting room, cellar and eventually
learned all that he could about wine production. Now, we help
each other more than we compete—it’s good to have
competition and a number of wineries to attract tourism.”
Scott
acknowledges that although he didn’t have formal
training in winemaking, he spent nine years gleaning all he could
from Conroy, who spent more than 10 years working in wineries
in Northern California. In 1990, a business opportunity arose
to be a part of a new winery—that business later morphed
into Caterina Winery, where Scott was head winemaker for nine
years before joining Lone Canary in 2002.
Steve
and Jeanne Schaub approached Scott in 2001, asking for help
in growing grapes. The Schaubs
had about an acre of grapes
planted in the Spokane, not an area associated with grape production—too
cold in the winter and not enough heat in the summer for grape-growing.
Still, some grapes faired well, and Schaub asked Scott to go
into the winemaking business.
When is a Canary like a Turkey? The history
of Lone Canary’s
name is a lesson in near-silliness. The winery was originally
dubbed Wild Canary, and the label already
federally-approved when out of the blue, Scott and his partners
get a letter from a law firm representing Wild Turkey, a Kentucky
bourbon producer. The letter asked that the owners of Wild Canary
withdraw their trademark application to use the name, since it
was too similar to the Wild Turkey label and could cause consumer
confusion.
Scott
said he thought the public could tell the difference between
a canary and a turkey, but
rather than spend thousands of dollars
to fight the distilling company, the partners decided to switch
the name to Lone Canary. As Scott recalled, he told people, “I
would not want to sit down at anyone’s table that was confused
by a wild canary and a wild turkey.”
Having
established the name and logo, Scott and partners don’t
think they’ll receive any challenges from Lone Star Beer,
unless someone confuses it with a bird. “We haven’t
heard anymore about it after two years, so I think we’re
good to go,” Scott said.
In fact,
the logo garnered design awards recently, and visitors want
items with the Lone Canary
logo to take home. Tasting room
staff said the logo has become very popular in a few short years.
The logo is a rendering of Washington’s state bird, the
American Goldfinch, or Wild Canary. As the “lone” canary,
the owners say it now expresses their choice to stand apart from
the flock through a unique and artistic expression of the wines.
At 4,000 cases produced annually,
Scott says the goal is to produce up to 10,000 cases per year,
delivering “good wine
at a fair price” that will compliment the dinner table.
In order to reach that goal, Lone Canary will need to find a
new location for expansion, something the owners are currently
negotiating.
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