Chateau RollatLeSommer is a Stroke of Geniusby Jean Yates
Lindgren sought out Christian LeSommer after a long search. Tracking down LeSommer in France, where he manages properties across three continents for Rothschild, Lindgren asked LeSommer to become Chateau Rollat's winemaker. Predictably, LeSommer declined, citing his obligations for Rothschild. Lindgren persisted, asking if he could have one day a year. "Certainly" replied LeSommer. "I can give you one day a year." "Well then, could I have two days a year?" said Lindgren. "Yes, you can have two days a year" replied LeSommer. "Then tell me how many days a year I can have!" said Lindgren, getting pushy as heck. Persistence paid off as the conversation continued, and Lindgren persuaded LeSommer to travel to Walla Walla to see the vineyards. Arriving in Washington State for the first time, Lindgren drove LeSommer through Walla Walla wine country. Two vineyard visits and LeSommer was hooked, agreeing to become Chateau Rollat's consulting winemaker. He now travels to Washington State several times a year to visit the vineyards and direct Bowen's winemaking. During a recent visit to Washington, LeSommer visited the Pepperbridge and Seven Hills Vineyards in Walla Walla (sources for the Chateau Rollat fruit), and declared the state of the vines excellent. He complimented Lindgren for his proficiency in the winery and commented on his willingness to follow direction exactly. Lindgren has applied LeSommer's regimen for winemaking rigorously - cleanliness, use of many more tanks than usual to keep various lots of wine separate, use of only certain barrel makers and styles, etc. Lindgren follows LeSommer's trademark winemaking methods, some of which LeSommer requests be kept secret. Tasting the Chateau Rollat Wines
Moving on to the "Rollat", we paired it with grilled lamb to great effect. A big wine, the Rollat none the less complemented and enhanced the lamb, a meat more usually associated with Pinot noir in the Pacific Northwest. Here's where the LeSommer effect is strongly sensed. He definitely has a personal perspective on Bourdeaux, and it shows in the Rollat. When I first tasted the Chateau Rollat wines, I was struck by their character, unlike anything else I'd tried from Washington State. The "Rollat" wine is a great example. While undeniably rich, the "Rollat" is layered - there's a perception of transparent layers of flavors, one over the other, passing over the palate. Each layer offers a different aspect of the wine- fruit, spice, minerals, flowers, back to fruit, a meaty note, a hint of smoke, a hint of toasted coffe bean, back to fruit, and onward. At the same time, the wine is distinctly textured - the mouthfeel is not rough, but not smooth either - a rich viscosity is balanced by a sense of shot silk on the roof of the mouth. The finish persists oer several minutes and continues to echo the layers of flavors that makes the wine so pleasant. I've found this transparency of a myriad of layers of flavor in great Pinot noir before, but never in a deeply flavored Bourdeaux. Tasting the Chateau Rollat wines for the first time was an epiphany. It reminds me of the first time I tried the Quilceda wines, twelve years ago, when Alex Golitsin was pouring his first vintage at a trade tasting, long before his fame, wait list, and 100 point ratings. We at Avalon are as excited as we have ever been at the first release of a Washington winery, and passionately recommend our clients who collect and appreciate Bordeaux consider adding the Chateau Rollat wines to their cellars. The Winery & the People Chateau Rollat, based in Walla Walla, Washington, is the effort of Bowin Lindgren and his famous consulting winemaker, Christian LeSommer. The Chateau Rollat wines, "Edouard", "Rollat", and Sophie" are like no other from Walla Walla. LaSommer's unparalleled experience and unique winemaking result in wines much more Bordeaux than New World - approachable now, yet promising a profound experience with cellaring. Christian LeSommer is one of the most famous winemakers in the world, and the mere mention of his name elicits attention and deep respect from wine industry members at the most exalted level. Among the wineries listed on LeSommer's résumé are Chateau d'Yquem and Chateau LaTour, where he was general manager and wine master for more than a decade. He is now the consulting manager for Domaines des Barons de Rothschild. Bowin Lindgren, owner of Chateau Rollat and an admirer of the wines made by Christian LeSommer, invited him to consult on Lindgren's fledgling Chateau Rollat. LeSommer consented, and has described the wines he intends to make as "the best possible expression of ripe Walla Walla fruit" (Seattle Times). Chateau Rollat is named for Bowin's great grandfather, Edouard Rollat, one of the foremost wine authorities in New York at the turn of the 20th century. He was the Sommelier at Cafe Martin, one of New York City's finest restaurants at the time, and became a wine broker at the Vendome wine house after Prohibition. Bowin's family rejoins the wine industry after two generations.
Edouard Rollat was one of the most influential members of the NYC wine community for most of the first half of the 20th century. Arriving in the early 1900's, he quickly used the skills learned at his family's winery in France to become Sommelier at Cafe Martin. When Prohibition ended that career, he continued to educate and consult on wine. After Prohibition, he worked for Vendome, a wine brokerage and consulting company based in NYC.
Avalon Tasting Notes: A concentrated nose of cassis, black plum, soil, smoke, violets, and spicy herbs. The lush palate offers up beautifully dense black fruits, with attractive sweetness and awesome length. This is a wine for cellaring--the structure begs for it. Put into a line-up of 20 Walla Walla Cabs or Cab blends, you could pick this wine out virtually every time because of its distinct earth, herb, and oak component. Those who invest in the 05 Edouard will be very happy in 10 years. Winery Tasting Notes: "Rollat's still more substantial sibling is the 2005 'Edouard' Cabernet Sauvignon ($62).... All Chateau Rollat wines are being made at Va Piano for the moment, though a dedicated winery is in the planning stages. The Edouard, in French terms, is a vin de garde — a wine to put away for some years. "I hope it will be a giant among wines," says the winemaker. Based on my first impressions (dark, smoky, nuances of bark, soil, subtle layers of earth and barrel), I believe it will." - Paul Gregutt, Seattle Times Steven Tanzer says: "Bright ruby-red. Aromas of black cherry and herbs, with a brooding soil pungency and very suave use of oak. Richer, denser and more energetic than the regular bottling. This one boasts greater sweetness of fruit but it also has terrific acidity and comes across as tightly wound today. Finishes very long, with a succulence achieved by only a handful of Washington State Cabernets. These two wines are made entirely from Walla Walla fruit, from the Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills vineyards. 92(+?) points"
Avalon Tasting Notes: Aromas of dark berries and black currants mingle with herb-infused mocha and eucalyptus. The tannic backbone is matched by full black plum, black currant, and black cherry flavors. Like its big brother Edoaurd, it requires patience to coax out the best of the Rollat. Paul Gregutt says: The "2005 'Rollat' Cabernet Sauvignon, presents supple, ripe and sweet fruit on a bed of fine tannins. The word that kept cropping up as I tasted the wine was "polished." It has a sophisticated finesse that moves the beautiful fruit flavors into a more elegant dimension than all but a handful of Washington wines. The Rollat is available by the glass at the Waterfront, the Herbfarm and the Barking Frog..." - Paul Gregutt, Seattle Times
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Chateau Rollat owner Bowin Lindgren describes the wines he intends to make as "the best possible expression of ripe Walla Walla fruit" (Seattle Times). While many aspiring winery owners express a similar vision, Lindgren's choice of winemaker, France's Christian LeSommer, is a stroke of genius. 
I recently tasted the Chateau Rollat wines with LeSommer and Lindgren at The Barking Frog in Woodinville, Washington as part of a meal specially created by chef Bobby Moore. Starting with the just released Chateau Rollat "Sophie" 05, we found it lively and easy to love. Balanced and round, its plush black cherry and spice notes finished with a refreshing lift from the just-right acidity. Eminently slurpable, the Sophie was eveything you could want in a $30 Bourdeaux style, Merlot based wine. 
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