Beaux Frères' 2002 Vintage Pinot noirs
by Jean Yates, first published in 2004, updated in 2008
There's something very Zen about a winemaker who works with the same small parcel of land and the same grape varietal, year after year. Certain strictures are laid out and adherred to, foremost the commitment to this one site, and one grape (pinot noir), in an effort to produce the purest expression of the vineyard. Such is the practice of Michael Etzel, whose Beaux Frères Winery celebrates its 11th vintage with some of the highest scores ever given by Wine Spectator for Oregon Pinot noirs.
As the years have passed, Michael has revisited his vineyard thousands of times, following the rhythm of the seasons, cycling through deeper and deeper knowledge of the soil, the weather, the vines, the local wildlife, the sum of ingredients that are described in the wine world as the expression of "terroir" in the wine. To taste through the vintages of Beaux Frères is to follow a journey of discovery, each vintage illuminating more facets of the vineyard.
With the 2002 vintage, a confluence of factors - a mature and healthy vineyard, ten years of experience with the site, great weather, great fruit, and a sunny warm harvest season - resulted in wine that reaches a new level of excellence for the winery, and for Oregon Pinot noir. Harvest proceeded at a relaxed pace, with plenty of time to hand sort the fruit under delightful working conditions- sunny days and cool nights, perfect for ripening Pinot grapes. What a contrast to some years spent standing out in the cold on the crushpad, sorting grapes in the rainy Oregon fall drizzle.
From the winery: "With the 2002 vintage, a confluence of factors - a mature and healthy vineyard, ten years of experience with the site, great weather, great fruit, and a sunny warm harvest season - resulted in wine that reaches a new level of excellence for the winery, and for Oregon Pinot noir. Harvest proceeded at a relaxed pace, with plenty of time to hand sort the fruit under delightful working conditions- sunny days and cool nights, perfect for ripening Pinot grapes. What a contrast to some years spent standing out in the cold on the crushpad, sorting grapes in the rainy Oregon fall drizzle."
"A hotter than usual August and September, coupled with drying east winds led to a slightly early beginning to harvest. The growing season was terrific and the vineyards experienced some unbelievable Indian Summer days kept the temperatures in the 80's."
"We began picking the young vine fruit at our new property on September 23rd and continued from there into The Beaux Frères Vineyard finishing on October 9th. With only a brief rain in the middle of that time period harvest took place under warm and sunny weather that lasted until the end of the month. All of this sunshine and warmth resulted in very high sugars with many lots coming in between 25 and 26 degrees brix, with one lot reaching an astonishing 27.5 degrees brix. For those of you who are unfamiliar with Oregon these are numbers attained only once or twice a decade."
"A further benefit of all of this fine weather was that we were able to spend extra time evaluating each vineyard block and to harvest at a relaxed pace. Fermentations were steady and clean, most being conducted using native yeast. Upon completion of fermentation the wines were pressed to barrel were they will spend a total of ten months before being racked out for bottling. Tasting the wines in barrel we are very pleased with the vintage and have high hopes for many of the lots. The 2002 vintage had a cool, slow malolactic fermentation, just how we like it. As they are now emerging from slumber they show promising results. We are quite excited about the new wines. This month they will move their only time from the individual barrels to the bottling tank, as we prepare to harvest 2003."
Oregon 2002 Pinot noirs - Something Special
Oregon is best known for its highly collectable Pinot noirs. The combination of the wonderful 2002 vintage, and significant price decreases over the last 14 months make this a perfect time to shop for Oregon Pinot noirs.
A little over a year ago, Oregon Pinot noirs were approaching their highest price points ever, with wineries raising formerly $30 wines to the high $40's and beyond. The dam broke in January 2003 with the release of the A to Z Pinot noir, an under $20 Pinot of excellent quality. Over the rest of 2003, under $20 Pinot noirs from new second labels proliferated. At the same time, wineries came under increasing price pressure, resulting in moderate to extreme price reductions. Now with the great 2002 vintage, moderate prices and high quality combine in a potent mix.
The 2002 Wines
Beaux Frères Pinot noir Beaux Frères Vineyard 2002
Wine Spectator 95 points
Wine Spectator says: "The Beaux Frères Vineyard is a big, ripe wine with mouthwatering acidity to bring harmony to a wash of plum, blackberry, cherry and dusky spice flavors, which persist on the fine-grained, not terribly tannic finish. It's the best yet from one of Oregon's great estates. The 24-acre vineyard covers steep hillsides on Ribbon Ridge, fast emerging as a golden spot in the Chehalem Mountains in Willamette Valley. Drink now through 2012. H.S."
Beaux Frères Belles Soeurs Pinot noir Shea 02
Wine Spectator rating 94 points
Wine Spectator says: "Belles Soeurs is the label Beaux Frères uses for its wines made with purchased grapes. The Shea Vineyard is powerful, rich and seductive, a plush mouthful of fresh plum, blackberry and subtle spices, amazingly ripe and supple right through the extraordinarily long finish. Tannins are beautifully integrated, but enough to carry this one a long way in the cellar. Best from 2005 through 2012. From Oregon. - H.S."
Beaux Frères Estate " Upper Terrace" Pinot noir 02
Wine Spectator rating 91 points
Wine Spectator says: "Planted entirely with Dijon clones, closely spaced one hilltop over from the home vineyard, Upper Terrace has owner-winemaker Michael Etzel grinning in anticipation. The first vintage's lithe, supple style has a meaty edge to the dead-ripe blackberry, strawberry and plum flavors, beautifully balanced with fine-grained tannins as it lasts on the finish. Drink now through 2010." - H.S.
